Drunk driving, driving under the influence, driving while intoxicated, drink-driving, impaired driving, operating under the influence: no matter what you call it (and no matter where you are), drunk driving is one of the most reckless activities you can participate in. Not only is it illegal in all US states and most countries around the world, but most repeat drunk drivers end up irrevocably altering (or ending) many lives: their own and those of strangers, friends, loved ones, and children.
Although specific drunk driving regulations may differ from state to state, the penalties are high. Those who kill or injure another while driving under the influence can face heavy fines and civil suits as well as jail time. Most states have adopted strict sentencing laws that ensure those convicted will serve the full time they are sentenced to.
Since 2004, the most common legal limit for drunk driving is .08% Blood Alcohol Content (BAC). Different people will reach this BAC at different points; on average, consuming 3-5 drinks in an hour will bring your BAC close to this limit. However, it’s important to note that your BAC keeps going up for three hours after you’ve finished drinking and that alcohol affects different people in different ways. Many jurisdictions also have open container laws which prohibit the presence of open containers of alcohol within a motor vehicle, even if the driver is not consuming alcohol. In other states, it is illegal to even sleep in the driver’s seat while drunk.
Drivers can experience impaired faculties at BAC levels as low as .02%. At .05%, drivers suffer from a reduced ability to track moving objects, to respond to emergencies, and to steer effectively. At .08%, drivers cannot control speed effectively, suffer from impaired concentration and memory, and have a harder time processing information, such as the appearance of new obstacles or changing traffic conditions.
Knowing this, it’s not surprising that roughly 10% of traffic-related fatalities are caused by drunk driving. In the United States, on average one person dies from an alcohol-related crash every 40-45 minutes. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Association (NHTSA), these accidents result in $50 billion in costs each year. Young drivers are particularly at risk. Drivers in the 21-24 year old bracket are the most likely to drive drunk. Alcohol is also a factor in 31% of fatal crashes in the 15-20 year old bracket.
While for some drivers drunk driving may be a rare poor choice, many are repeat offenders. On average, a driver arrested for the first time for drunk driving has driven drunk 87 times before! Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD), an organization which has radically changed the way Americans view drunk driving, estimates that over 2 million drunk drivers with three or more prior convictions are on the road on any given day.
However, these drivers face stern consequences. In many places, drivers arrested with BACs of over .2 or .15 suffer from additional penalties, including the installation of ignition interlock devices (an in-car breathalyzer which drivers must blow into before the car will start), larger fines, and longer DUI programs. In many states, physicians are allowed to violate doctor-patient confidentiality in order to report drunk driving. In other states, such as Ohio and Minnesota, repeat offenders are issued special license plates. In South Africa, a country which has notoriously high rates of drunk driving accidents, local newspapers have begun to print “lists of shame” on Monday morning which make public the names of drivers convicted of drunk driving over the weekend.
Although rates of drunk driving arrests and convictions have declined in recent years, this is clearly still a serious issue. You can help to prevent drunk driving by making sure that you and your friends make safe choices. If you know you will be drinking, make arrangements to take a taxi, use public transportation, or call a safe ride service. You can also take turns serving as designated driver or choose bars and restaurants within walking distance. If worse comes to worst, call a family member or (very good) friend. While they may be annoyed at having to fetch you late at night, they’ll be glad that you’re safe in the morning.
If you host a party, make provisions for your guests. Either make sure that each group has a designated driver or provide space for guests to stay over. There are lots of delicious recipes for non-alcoholic cocktails and punches out there, so think about providing an attractive alternative for your non-drinking guests.
If you see a driver on the road who looks like he or she may be driving drunk, don’t hesitate to alert your local police. A report like yours will be enough cause for an officer to pull over the driver in question. Symptoms of drunk driving include rapid and erratic acceleration and deceleration, stopping suddenly and/or in an inappropriate place, driving in the center of two lanes, driving very slowly (i.e. under 10mph) and other similar odd behaviors.
Educate your friends and family as well. While 80% of drivers in the US know the term “BAC,” many don’t know or understand the legal limits for their states. Don’t let friends or acquaintances get behind the wheel after drinking and make sure they know what the consequences can be if they do.
If you’d like to get more involved in the fight against drunk driving, there are a number of non-profit organizations dedicated to doing so. The most famous of these is Mothers Against Drunk driving (www.madd.org). Among their current initiatives is a lobby to have ignition interlock devices installed in the cars of all convicted drunk drivers, so that they cannot easily become repeat offenders. The Century Council (www.centurycouncil.org) is another leader in the fight against drunk driving.
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Showing posts with label defensive driving online. Show all posts
Showing posts with label defensive driving online. Show all posts
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Airbag Safety: Making Your Airbag Work For You
Airbags are built to save lives, and they do. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) estimates that airbags saved 13,967 lives between 1987 and 2003. Since 1998, all new cars have been required to have front air bags; side airbags are now also increasingly common. These devices can reduce the risk of accident fatality by 11-13%.
However, airbags can also cause injury. As crashes happen very quickly, airbags deploy at around 200 mph. For those who are positioned incorrectly, as well as for children 12 and younger, this can pose a serious hazard. Each year sees a number of airbag-related injuries and fatalities, particularly among children. In order for airbags to do their job effectively, you, as the driver, have to do yours by making sure that everyone in the car is seated appropriately.
For Children
Even in cars without airbags, children 12 and under are safest in the back seat. Always try to plan ahead so that you won’t have to transport children in the front seat. Because children are smaller and more fragile than adults, airbags do not impact them appropriately. As a result, children sitting in the front seat can suffer serious injury from airbags if involved in a crash.
Infants under one year should be seated in rear-facing seats, as their head and neck muscles aren’t yet strong enough to resist the force of a crash. These seats must ALWAYS be placed in the back seat. Children older than one year can be placed in forward-facing convertible safety seats, which should also be placed in the back seat. Booster seats should then be used until seat belts fit the child appropriately.
If there is a compelling reasons for a child to be seated in the front seat, such as a medical condition that requires constant supervision, then the child should be properly restrained and the seat pushed back as far as possible. Installing an on/off switch for the airbag may also be a good idea in such a situation. However, you’ll need to be diligent about turning off the airbags when children are in the front seat and turning them on for adult passengers.
For Adults
Driver and passengers should always be sure to sit at least ten inches away from the airbags. It’s not a good idea for passengers to put their feet up on the dash or lean too close to the airbag. While short stature drivers may be inclined to sit close to the wheel, it is much safer to sit farther away; pedal extenders or other modifications may help to make this positioning more comfortable for short stature adults.
Figure 1: Safe Distance from Airbag
While you were probably taught the “10 and 2” hand position, this is no longer the best alternative in the days of near-universal airbags. If your hands are too close to the top of the wheel when the airbags deploy, you’ll end up punching yourself in the face.
Instead, driving instructors—including those who teach drivers of emergency vehicles—recommend placing hands between “8 and 4” and “9 and 3.” In addition to being safer, this is also a more natural position that causes less stress to the arms.
Figure 2: “9 and 3” hand position
The future of airbags
Today, many car manufacturers are developing smart air bag technology that is making airbags safer to use. Since 2006, all car manufacturers have been required to implement sensors that can detect when a child or improperly positioned adult is in the front seat and modify (or stop) the deployment of airbags.
“Smart” airbags are also designed to deploy in two stages: a smaller deployment for minor fender benders and a full deployment for more serious accidents. In addition to being safer, these designs can also save money, as most airbags need to be replaced after deployment. Even if you have smart airbags in your car, however, you should still seat children in the back seat.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
However, airbags can also cause injury. As crashes happen very quickly, airbags deploy at around 200 mph. For those who are positioned incorrectly, as well as for children 12 and younger, this can pose a serious hazard. Each year sees a number of airbag-related injuries and fatalities, particularly among children. In order for airbags to do their job effectively, you, as the driver, have to do yours by making sure that everyone in the car is seated appropriately.
For Children
Even in cars without airbags, children 12 and under are safest in the back seat. Always try to plan ahead so that you won’t have to transport children in the front seat. Because children are smaller and more fragile than adults, airbags do not impact them appropriately. As a result, children sitting in the front seat can suffer serious injury from airbags if involved in a crash.
Infants under one year should be seated in rear-facing seats, as their head and neck muscles aren’t yet strong enough to resist the force of a crash. These seats must ALWAYS be placed in the back seat. Children older than one year can be placed in forward-facing convertible safety seats, which should also be placed in the back seat. Booster seats should then be used until seat belts fit the child appropriately.
If there is a compelling reasons for a child to be seated in the front seat, such as a medical condition that requires constant supervision, then the child should be properly restrained and the seat pushed back as far as possible. Installing an on/off switch for the airbag may also be a good idea in such a situation. However, you’ll need to be diligent about turning off the airbags when children are in the front seat and turning them on for adult passengers.
For Adults
Driver and passengers should always be sure to sit at least ten inches away from the airbags. It’s not a good idea for passengers to put their feet up on the dash or lean too close to the airbag. While short stature drivers may be inclined to sit close to the wheel, it is much safer to sit farther away; pedal extenders or other modifications may help to make this positioning more comfortable for short stature adults.
Figure 1: Safe Distance from Airbag
While you were probably taught the “10 and 2” hand position, this is no longer the best alternative in the days of near-universal airbags. If your hands are too close to the top of the wheel when the airbags deploy, you’ll end up punching yourself in the face.
Instead, driving instructors—including those who teach drivers of emergency vehicles—recommend placing hands between “8 and 4” and “9 and 3.” In addition to being safer, this is also a more natural position that causes less stress to the arms.
Figure 2: “9 and 3” hand position
Instructors also recommend using modified hand-to-hand steering when turning. Instead of bringing your hands together at the top of the wheel, push up with one hand; then, before that hand reaches the top of the wheel, slide the other hand up and pull down. You will be feed the wheel through your hands without actually bringing either hand to the top of the wheel.
The future of airbags
Today, many car manufacturers are developing smart air bag technology that is making airbags safer to use. Since 2006, all car manufacturers have been required to implement sensors that can detect when a child or improperly positioned adult is in the front seat and modify (or stop) the deployment of airbags.
“Smart” airbags are also designed to deploy in two stages: a smaller deployment for minor fender benders and a full deployment for more serious accidents. In addition to being safer, these designs can also save money, as most airbags need to be replaced after deployment. Even if you have smart airbags in your car, however, you should still seat children in the back seat.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Work-related Car Accidents: Who Is Responsible?
If your employee has an accident while driving his or her own car to work, are you as the employer responsible? What about an employee who uses a personal car to take a prospective client to dinner and hits a pedestrian? What if a different employee has an accident while using a company car on personal business?
Whether you are responsible for a corporate fleet or simply have one or two employees who use their cars to run work-related errands, these are questions you should be able to answer. However, the answers can be a bit more complicated than you might think.
In general, employers have vicarious responsibility for the actions of their employees. Under the principle “respondeat superior,” an employer is legally responsible for any actions undertaken employees during the course of employment. Determining what exactly the “course of employment” is can be a bit tricky.
Basically, if an action is undertaken to accommodate the needs of an employer and/or benefits the employer, then it is considered to be in the “course of employment.” For example, say an employer asks his employee to fetch work-related materials on his or her way home. The employer would then be liable for any accidents or damage incurred by the employee while driving home from work. This holds true whether or not the employee is driving a company car or a personal car and even if the driver only uses the vehicle for work-related purposes sporadically.
For example, in a recent case in California, Lobo v. Tamco (2010), the court ruled that an employer was responsible for the actions of an employee while travelling to and from work, as the employer required that the employee bring his car to work in order to use it for company errands. While the employee had only been required to use his car for work-related errands on 12 occasions during 16 years of employment, the employer was nonetheless held responsible.
Courts do often distinguish between “detours” and “frolics.” If an employee goes on a detour while carrying out his or her duties, then the employer will still be responsible. For example, if an employee stops for food while on the way to a sales call and an accident occurs at the drive-through, the employer will likely be held responsible. However, should an employee use a personal OR company vehicle for reasons of personal pleasure, this is defined as a “frolic,” and the employer is not held responsible. For example, if an employee has an accident with a company car while taking his family out to dinner, the employer won’t be held responsible. However, this may not necessarily be true. In some states, owner liability laws will ensure that the employer is responsible for any accidents that involve company cars, even if they occur while personal tasks are being carried out.
Employers can also be held responsible for negligent hiring. Employers need to conduct the necessary background checks to ensure that employees are suitable for the tasks that will be required of them. For example, an employer who hired a convicted child molester to drive an ice cream truck would be guilty of negligent hiring. This holds true for positions which require driving. If you are hiring an employee who will be required to carry out ANY kind of work-related driving, you, as an employer, will be responsible for checking that the prospective employee has a clear driving record, any necessary licensing, and the knowledge and skills necessary to drive safely. Employers can also be found guilty of negligent retention. If a driver accumulates repeated fines and offenses, his or her employer must take steps to prevent further problems, including suspension, firing, or the completion of a defensive driving course.
One area of employer liability that has recently come under intense scrutiny is the rise in distracted driving accidents. Employers can be held liable for cell-phone related accidents, particularly if the employer has created a work environment in which employees are pressured to be in constant communication, even while driving. If an employer issues cellphones to employees, the employer can also be held liable for phone related accidents.
As an employer, you can take several steps to minimize your liability for cell-phone related accidents, including:
Communication of expectations and regular safe driving education can also help to reduce the number of accidents and promote safe driving habits within the work place. Enrolling your workforce in a defensive driving course is a great way to educate your employees and prevent accidents. Find out more at www.businessdefensivedriving.com.
Whether you are responsible for a corporate fleet or simply have one or two employees who use their cars to run work-related errands, these are questions you should be able to answer. However, the answers can be a bit more complicated than you might think.
In general, employers have vicarious responsibility for the actions of their employees. Under the principle “respondeat superior,” an employer is legally responsible for any actions undertaken employees during the course of employment. Determining what exactly the “course of employment” is can be a bit tricky.
Basically, if an action is undertaken to accommodate the needs of an employer and/or benefits the employer, then it is considered to be in the “course of employment.” For example, say an employer asks his employee to fetch work-related materials on his or her way home. The employer would then be liable for any accidents or damage incurred by the employee while driving home from work. This holds true whether or not the employee is driving a company car or a personal car and even if the driver only uses the vehicle for work-related purposes sporadically.
For example, in a recent case in California, Lobo v. Tamco (2010), the court ruled that an employer was responsible for the actions of an employee while travelling to and from work, as the employer required that the employee bring his car to work in order to use it for company errands. While the employee had only been required to use his car for work-related errands on 12 occasions during 16 years of employment, the employer was nonetheless held responsible.
Courts do often distinguish between “detours” and “frolics.” If an employee goes on a detour while carrying out his or her duties, then the employer will still be responsible. For example, if an employee stops for food while on the way to a sales call and an accident occurs at the drive-through, the employer will likely be held responsible. However, should an employee use a personal OR company vehicle for reasons of personal pleasure, this is defined as a “frolic,” and the employer is not held responsible. For example, if an employee has an accident with a company car while taking his family out to dinner, the employer won’t be held responsible. However, this may not necessarily be true. In some states, owner liability laws will ensure that the employer is responsible for any accidents that involve company cars, even if they occur while personal tasks are being carried out.
Employers can also be held responsible for negligent hiring. Employers need to conduct the necessary background checks to ensure that employees are suitable for the tasks that will be required of them. For example, an employer who hired a convicted child molester to drive an ice cream truck would be guilty of negligent hiring. This holds true for positions which require driving. If you are hiring an employee who will be required to carry out ANY kind of work-related driving, you, as an employer, will be responsible for checking that the prospective employee has a clear driving record, any necessary licensing, and the knowledge and skills necessary to drive safely. Employers can also be found guilty of negligent retention. If a driver accumulates repeated fines and offenses, his or her employer must take steps to prevent further problems, including suspension, firing, or the completion of a defensive driving course.
One area of employer liability that has recently come under intense scrutiny is the rise in distracted driving accidents. Employers can be held liable for cell-phone related accidents, particularly if the employer has created a work environment in which employees are pressured to be in constant communication, even while driving. If an employer issues cellphones to employees, the employer can also be held liable for phone related accidents.
As an employer, you can take several steps to minimize your liability for cell-phone related accidents, including:
Creating a clear written policy on cell phone usage and safe driving that is signed by all employees. For tips on how to do this, see my previous entry on how to create a safe driving policy.
Provide printed information on state laws regarding driving and cell-phone usage.
Have all employees sign an indemnity statement that absolves the employer of responsibility should they violate the company’s cell-phone usage policy.
Communication of expectations and regular safe driving education can also help to reduce the number of accidents and promote safe driving habits within the work place. Enrolling your workforce in a defensive driving course is a great way to educate your employees and prevent accidents. Find out more at www.businessdefensivedriving.com.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Safe Driving in Snow and Ice!
Few things are as beautiful as the first snowfall—suddenly the drab, leafless trees are transformed by a coating of fresh powder; a mundane street becomes a wondrous new world. Unfortunately, driving conditions are also transformed by winter weather, making even the most familiar routes extremely treacherous. It’s no surprise that snow and ice are both among the top twenty-five causes of car accidents in the US. However, with experience, preparation, and patience, you can feel relatively safe in most winter conditions.
Having grown up in a northern state, I remember that my parents insisted I learn to drive twice: first, in the summer, when the roads were clear; then again, in the winter, when the first snow fell. The car felt completely different in the winter, and I had to recalibrate my steering, braking, and sense of speed, as well as my sense of space, since the roads were significantly narrowed by snow banks. My first piece of advice, then, for those who may be acclimating to a new winter driving climate is: practice. Don’t plan to travel much during your first snowstorm. Instead, have a friend take you to a parking lot or similar open stretch of pavement where you can practice snow driving in a safe environment. Wait until you’ve a got a bit more of a feel for how your car will handle in snow before heading out on the frozen road.
As the fall gets colder, start making preparations for the winter season. First, get your car serviced before the first snowstorm. Check the lights, brakes, heating and defrost systems, antifreeze level, and other basics. This is a good time to repair minor chips in the windshield as well, as these can expand in winter weather. It may be a good idea to coat your windshield with water repellant; this will help with visibility when driving in rain and snow.
If you live in an area that experiences severe winter conditions, you may want to invest in snow tires or chains. Snow tires are a special tire made of a slightly softer rubber, making them more flexible in winter, and with smaller tread grooves. Some areas that experience severe weather may actually require that snow tires be fitted in winter. Snow chains are just what they sound like: chains that fit over one’s wheels to improve traction on very snowy or icy surfaces. These are used in more extreme snow conditions, as snow chains can’t be used on dry roads and limit one’s speed to no more than 30 mph. In areas with heavy snow, you may also want to install heavy-duty wiper blades and/or mud guards and flaps, which will help to keep salt from the roads from corroding your car. Finally, cold weather can decrease your tire pressure, so make sure you keep checking your tires as the temperature drops.
In addition to making sure one’s car is in good shape, it’s also a good idea to have the necessary supplies on hand. Before the start of winter, make sure your car contains a spare tire, shovel, scraper, jumper cables, and salt, cat litter, or gravel (for creating traction on particularly slippery roads.) Creating an emergency kit for your car, which will contain first aid supplies, matches, flares, and other similar necessities, may also be a good idea. Make sure to store these items in a waterproof container.
Once you’re ready to head out on the road, proceed with caution! Snow and ice can be deceptive. First of all, you may not notice ice on the road, particular if it is slick “black ice.” The sun’s glare can also give ice the appearance of water on the road, so drive slowly when approaching what appears to be a wet surface in cold weather. Bridges, infrequently used streets, and shaded areas also tend to freeze first and stay frozen longer, so approach these areas with extra caution.
For this reason, make sure you are always looking ahead in winter weather, so as to be aware of hazards that may be approaching. This also means keeping a good distance between you and the car ahead of you. Following in the tracks of cars ahead is a good way to access slightly “drier” bits of pavement during bad conditions; however, remember that it’s much more difficult to stop quickly on snow and ice, so you need to give yourself and other cars plenty of space. This includes snow plows and sand trucks. Remember that these vehicles are your friends, even if they are slow! Don’t try to pass a plow, as plow trucks often have poor visibility; besides, the road behind a plow is most likely much safer than the road in front of it! Give yourself extra time to reach your destination so that you aren’t tempted to rush in winter weather.
As in most treacherous driving conditions, avoid sudden movements. Try to steer smoothly and brake gently, especially before you enter a curve or turn. Braking suddenly or over-steering can cause a skid. Make sure you review tips on dealing with spins and skids before heading out, as well. Avoid using overdrive or cruise control, but do use lower gears if climbing hills in the snow. Turn on your low beams to increase your visibility; if your wipers are on, your lights should probably be on too. In real blizzard weather, you may want to use your emergency flashers as well.
Above all, drive slowly! Conditions can change very quickly in the winter, especially with the onset of a bad storm. Be aware of what is happening outside your car and how your car reacts. Then, adjust accordingly. Err on the side of caution. Being late is annoying, but it isn’t life threatening.
Getting stuck in the snow can be a problem, especially if you make the mistake of backing into a snow bank (not that I’ve ever done that!). Since we’re now heading into warmer months, I’ll leave you in suspense for a while, as I’ll deal with being stuck in sand, mud, and snow in a later entry. Until then, try not to drive into a sand pit, swamp, or snow bank!
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety
Having grown up in a northern state, I remember that my parents insisted I learn to drive twice: first, in the summer, when the roads were clear; then again, in the winter, when the first snow fell. The car felt completely different in the winter, and I had to recalibrate my steering, braking, and sense of speed, as well as my sense of space, since the roads were significantly narrowed by snow banks. My first piece of advice, then, for those who may be acclimating to a new winter driving climate is: practice. Don’t plan to travel much during your first snowstorm. Instead, have a friend take you to a parking lot or similar open stretch of pavement where you can practice snow driving in a safe environment. Wait until you’ve a got a bit more of a feel for how your car will handle in snow before heading out on the frozen road.
As the fall gets colder, start making preparations for the winter season. First, get your car serviced before the first snowstorm. Check the lights, brakes, heating and defrost systems, antifreeze level, and other basics. This is a good time to repair minor chips in the windshield as well, as these can expand in winter weather. It may be a good idea to coat your windshield with water repellant; this will help with visibility when driving in rain and snow.
If you live in an area that experiences severe winter conditions, you may want to invest in snow tires or chains. Snow tires are a special tire made of a slightly softer rubber, making them more flexible in winter, and with smaller tread grooves. Some areas that experience severe weather may actually require that snow tires be fitted in winter. Snow chains are just what they sound like: chains that fit over one’s wheels to improve traction on very snowy or icy surfaces. These are used in more extreme snow conditions, as snow chains can’t be used on dry roads and limit one’s speed to no more than 30 mph. In areas with heavy snow, you may also want to install heavy-duty wiper blades and/or mud guards and flaps, which will help to keep salt from the roads from corroding your car. Finally, cold weather can decrease your tire pressure, so make sure you keep checking your tires as the temperature drops.
In addition to making sure one’s car is in good shape, it’s also a good idea to have the necessary supplies on hand. Before the start of winter, make sure your car contains a spare tire, shovel, scraper, jumper cables, and salt, cat litter, or gravel (for creating traction on particularly slippery roads.) Creating an emergency kit for your car, which will contain first aid supplies, matches, flares, and other similar necessities, may also be a good idea. Make sure to store these items in a waterproof container.
Once you’re ready to head out on the road, proceed with caution! Snow and ice can be deceptive. First of all, you may not notice ice on the road, particular if it is slick “black ice.” The sun’s glare can also give ice the appearance of water on the road, so drive slowly when approaching what appears to be a wet surface in cold weather. Bridges, infrequently used streets, and shaded areas also tend to freeze first and stay frozen longer, so approach these areas with extra caution.
For this reason, make sure you are always looking ahead in winter weather, so as to be aware of hazards that may be approaching. This also means keeping a good distance between you and the car ahead of you. Following in the tracks of cars ahead is a good way to access slightly “drier” bits of pavement during bad conditions; however, remember that it’s much more difficult to stop quickly on snow and ice, so you need to give yourself and other cars plenty of space. This includes snow plows and sand trucks. Remember that these vehicles are your friends, even if they are slow! Don’t try to pass a plow, as plow trucks often have poor visibility; besides, the road behind a plow is most likely much safer than the road in front of it! Give yourself extra time to reach your destination so that you aren’t tempted to rush in winter weather.
As in most treacherous driving conditions, avoid sudden movements. Try to steer smoothly and brake gently, especially before you enter a curve or turn. Braking suddenly or over-steering can cause a skid. Make sure you review tips on dealing with spins and skids before heading out, as well. Avoid using overdrive or cruise control, but do use lower gears if climbing hills in the snow. Turn on your low beams to increase your visibility; if your wipers are on, your lights should probably be on too. In real blizzard weather, you may want to use your emergency flashers as well.
Above all, drive slowly! Conditions can change very quickly in the winter, especially with the onset of a bad storm. Be aware of what is happening outside your car and how your car reacts. Then, adjust accordingly. Err on the side of caution. Being late is annoying, but it isn’t life threatening.
Getting stuck in the snow can be a problem, especially if you make the mistake of backing into a snow bank (not that I’ve ever done that!). Since we’re now heading into warmer months, I’ll leave you in suspense for a while, as I’ll deal with being stuck in sand, mud, and snow in a later entry. Until then, try not to drive into a sand pit, swamp, or snow bank!
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety
Saturday, December 18, 2010
What To Do If Your Car Catches Fire
Although not the most common driving emergency, fire is certainly one of the scariest and potentially one of the most dangerous. In 2004, the American Automobile Association reported 266,000 car fires, which resulted in 520 deaths. It’s interesting to note that 75% of these fires were caused by poor maintenance rather than collisions. With this in mind, let’s begin by discussing how to prevent fires.
Preventing a fire
First, have your car serviced regularly according to the schedule recommended by its manufacturer. When adding oil, use a funnel and check carefully for spills, as spilled or leaking oil can start a fire under the hood. If you have a gas station attendant add oil, check to make sure that the cap is replaced securely. It may sound pedantic, but mistakes happen; a missing cap could easily result in a fire. Make sure that checks of the electrical and fuel systems—the two most common causes of fires—are included in your service schedule. If you notice that fuses blow repeatedly, make sure to have this problem checked; it could indicate a more serious electrical issue.
Responding to a fire
While an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, sometimes the cure is necessary. If you notice smoke, fire, or a burning smell while driving, stop immediately. While in many instances smoke will not actually be the result of a fire, it nonetheless indicates a serious problem. Also pay attention to your gauges while driving; if the car begins to overheat, pull over and allow the engine to cool before more serious problems develop.
Stop as soon as you notice a problem and immediately turn off the car. If possible, pull over in a safe place first; however, driving will provide additional air to the fire, fanning the flames. If there is a large amount of smoke or you can actually see the fire, stop where you are. Other cars will go out of their way to avoid a burning car.
Then, get all passengers out of the car and make sure everyone moves far away from the vehicle. Car explosions are rare; the explosions you see in movies are triggered by explosives, not by an exploding gas tank. Still, they can happen. Additionally, burning oil and plastics give off toxic fumes. Make sure you have moved far enough away so as not to inhale these. Warn others near you or passing by to give the car a wide berth.
Next, if there is a fire, call 911. If not sure, err on the side of caution. It is better to be a bit embarrassed than to place yourselves and others in serious danger.
Putting out the fire
First, remember that it is more important to save lives than to save your car. Make your own safety and the safety of your passengers your priority. Only try to put out the fire if you have the necessary equipment, skill, and knowledge to do so safely. This will be more effective if the fire is small; if it is already large by the time your escape the car, it’s better to call 911.
If you are concerned about car fires, you can prepare by installing a fire extinguisher in your car. This should be a class ABC extinguisher (meaning it can put out any kind of fire) and should weigh at least five pounds. Make sure this extinguisher is within reach of the driver’s seat (i.e. somewhere in the passenger compartment) and that you know how to use it.
If you can, grab the extinguisher as you exit the car. If the fire is under the hood, pop the hood but do not open it fully, as the sudden influx of air could turn a small fire into a big one. Spray through the opening with the fire extinguisher. If inside the car, leave one door open and spray accordingly. If the fire is near the rear of the car, i.e. close to the gas tank, move away from the car quickly and warn others to do the same.
Finally, remember that fire damage is covered by comprehensive insurance policies. Because assessing fires can be a lengthy process, make sure to notify your insurance company of the fire as soon as possible.
The most important thing is to remain calm, think quickly and clearly, and put people before possessions. Here’s a brief recap of the steps to take:
1. Stop.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Get everyone out of the car.
4. Move far away from the car and warn others.
5. Call 911 to alert the fire department.
6. If the fire is small and there is an extinguisher to hand, consider attempting to put out the fire. Err on the side of caution when making this judgement.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Preventing a fire
First, have your car serviced regularly according to the schedule recommended by its manufacturer. When adding oil, use a funnel and check carefully for spills, as spilled or leaking oil can start a fire under the hood. If you have a gas station attendant add oil, check to make sure that the cap is replaced securely. It may sound pedantic, but mistakes happen; a missing cap could easily result in a fire. Make sure that checks of the electrical and fuel systems—the two most common causes of fires—are included in your service schedule. If you notice that fuses blow repeatedly, make sure to have this problem checked; it could indicate a more serious electrical issue.
Responding to a fire
While an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, sometimes the cure is necessary. If you notice smoke, fire, or a burning smell while driving, stop immediately. While in many instances smoke will not actually be the result of a fire, it nonetheless indicates a serious problem. Also pay attention to your gauges while driving; if the car begins to overheat, pull over and allow the engine to cool before more serious problems develop.
Stop as soon as you notice a problem and immediately turn off the car. If possible, pull over in a safe place first; however, driving will provide additional air to the fire, fanning the flames. If there is a large amount of smoke or you can actually see the fire, stop where you are. Other cars will go out of their way to avoid a burning car.
Then, get all passengers out of the car and make sure everyone moves far away from the vehicle. Car explosions are rare; the explosions you see in movies are triggered by explosives, not by an exploding gas tank. Still, they can happen. Additionally, burning oil and plastics give off toxic fumes. Make sure you have moved far enough away so as not to inhale these. Warn others near you or passing by to give the car a wide berth.
Next, if there is a fire, call 911. If not sure, err on the side of caution. It is better to be a bit embarrassed than to place yourselves and others in serious danger.
Putting out the fire
First, remember that it is more important to save lives than to save your car. Make your own safety and the safety of your passengers your priority. Only try to put out the fire if you have the necessary equipment, skill, and knowledge to do so safely. This will be more effective if the fire is small; if it is already large by the time your escape the car, it’s better to call 911.
If you are concerned about car fires, you can prepare by installing a fire extinguisher in your car. This should be a class ABC extinguisher (meaning it can put out any kind of fire) and should weigh at least five pounds. Make sure this extinguisher is within reach of the driver’s seat (i.e. somewhere in the passenger compartment) and that you know how to use it.
If you can, grab the extinguisher as you exit the car. If the fire is under the hood, pop the hood but do not open it fully, as the sudden influx of air could turn a small fire into a big one. Spray through the opening with the fire extinguisher. If inside the car, leave one door open and spray accordingly. If the fire is near the rear of the car, i.e. close to the gas tank, move away from the car quickly and warn others to do the same.
Finally, remember that fire damage is covered by comprehensive insurance policies. Because assessing fires can be a lengthy process, make sure to notify your insurance company of the fire as soon as possible.
The most important thing is to remain calm, think quickly and clearly, and put people before possessions. Here’s a brief recap of the steps to take:
1. Stop.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Get everyone out of the car.
4. Move far away from the car and warn others.
5. Call 911 to alert the fire department.
6. If the fire is small and there is an extinguisher to hand, consider attempting to put out the fire. Err on the side of caution when making this judgement.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Thursday, December 9, 2010
How to Find a Good Mechanic
In many of my previous entries, I’ve written at length about the complex workings of your car and the many problems that can arise, from minor glitches to serious setbacks. Throughout these entries, I’ve emphasized the importance of having a trusted mechanic that you can turn to should problems arise. Now, it’s time to discuss how you can go about finding said trusted and reliable mechanic (if you aren’t lucky enough to have found such a mechanic already.)
In terms of trustworthiness, car mechanics certainly don’t have the best reputation. However, this doesn’t mean that there aren’t f reliable and honest mechanics out there. If you’ve read my various entries on how cars work, you’ll know that even the most basic car is a very complicated and ingenious machine. The best mechanics are extremely knowledgeable and skilled professionals with a passion for their work. As you begin your search for a mechanic, look, above all, for someone who seems to enjoy and take pride in his work.
WHERE TO BEGIN
First of all, don’t wait until you have a problem to start looking for a mechanic. You’ll be under pressure to find one quickly and then will have to trust a serious to repair to someone you haven’t yet established a relationship with. Instead, try taking your car to a mechanic you are considering for a routine service, such as an oil change, and see how you feel about the service you receive. Make sure to read your owner’s manual and be familiar with the suggested service schedule, so that you know when you should be taking your car in. When you’re ready to begin the search for your new mechanic, you should take the following steps, each of which I’ll discuss in detail below:
1. Compile a list of reputable potential mechanics in your area.
2. Visit and evaluate the mechanics on your list.
3. Choose the shop that impressed you the most and take your car for an oil change. If satisfied, become a regular customer. If not, wait until your next service is due and try a different shop.
4. Build a relationship with your mechanic.
Note that large chains and dealerships are often more expensive than local mechanics. Additionally, you will be more likely to develop a strong relationship with a smaller, local shop, since maintaining a strong reputation and lasting customer relationships are very important for the survival of a small shop. If you take the time to find a local mechanic who seems trustworthy and reliable, you will save yourself money and hassle in the long run.
FINDING A MECHANIC
So, you’ve decided to find a new mechanic. Where do you begin? First, compile a list of prospective mechanics. Word of mouth is often one of the best sources of information. Ask friends, relatives, and neighbors in your area where they go to get their cars serviced. In particular, ask anyone you know who has a car that is similar to yours, as many mechanics will specialize in a particular kind of car.
There are a number of online sources that may be useful to you. NPR has a great car show, called Car Talk; check it out on the radio or via podcast if you can! The Car Talk website has a feature called the Mechan-X files, where they keep a database of mechanics. These mechanics are ranked in different categories (cost, efficiency, etc.) You can search by zip code and for different attributes; you’ll also be able to read reviews posted by visitors to the site, all at cartalk.cars.com/content/mechx/
Call the Better Business Bureau (or check out their website) to look for recommended mechanics or see if complaints have been filed against any mechanics you are considering. You may also want to look to the National Institute for Automotive Excellence (www.asecert.org) or the American Automobile Association for further advice (www.aaa.org).
Continue to ask around. Check with local auto clubs, particularly if you have a specialty car. You could also ask the local police where they have their fleet serviced. Finally, try calling your dealer’s wholesale parts department. This is the department at your dealership that sells parts to independent mechanics (avoid the department which supplies parts to the dealership’s own mechanics). Mechanics who buy their parts directly from the dealer are likely more concerned with quality than cost. Ask the parts department which mechanics frequently buy from them; they will likely be happy to recommend some of their best customers.
EVALUATING A MECHANIC
Once you’ve compiled a list of mechanics, start checking out their shops. Remember that, while you may not be an expert on cars, you do have basic knowledge about how a good business should be run and an intuitive sense of people. Trust your gut instinct about the place and the people who work there.
First, take a look at the shop and its yard. What kinds of vehicles are there? Are some similar to your car? Are the yard and shop clean and well maintained? Are the mechanics’ uniforms similarly well maintained? Are the waiting room and bathroom clean and pleasant?
These may seem like superficial questions. However, a shop that takes pride in its appearance will be more likely to take pride in its work as well. While a certain amount of grime is expected in this trade, a really slovenly shop probably isn’t a good sign.
Next, look for accreditation, both AAA and ASE (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). While ASE training doesn’t guarantee great service, it’s a good sign that the mechanics and the shop are committed to providing quality service and take pride in their work. You can see on each certificate what areas a mechanic has trained in and when. The ASE requires that those who participate in its programs keep these certifications up to date.
Ask about the shop’s policies. What kind of warranty is on offer? Does the warranty cover parts and labor? A great warranty will last for six months; 90 days is also acceptable. A 30-day warranty isn’t a good sign. Also ask about the prices; remember, though, that the cheapest shop isn’t necessarily reliable, but the most expensive shop may not be the best. You may also want to test the reliability of the shop’s pricing system. Call prospective shops and ask for a quote for a particular service. Two days later, have a friend call for the same quote. Are they the same? You may be surprised to find that some shops don’t have regular pricing schemes.
Don’t be afraid to ask the service writer—basically, the customer service representative—for the names of customers you could call for references. The staff should be friendly and willing to answer questions; if you don’t feel comfortable at a particular place, look elsewhere.
Finally, ask to take a look inside the garage itself. Notice the size of the mechanics’ tool boxes. Experienced and committed mechanics accumulate vast amounts of expensive and specialized tools. A large toolbox (roughly the size of a refrigerator or larger) indicates a mechanic has a great deal of experience.
AT THE SHOP
Once you’ve identified a shop that looks promising, take your car in for a “test” service, such as an oil change.
When you arrive at the shop, you will speak first with a service writer, unless the shop is very small. The service writer is, first and foremost, a salesman. He or she communicates with the mechanic and works to ensure the shop turns a profit, which is necessary for the shop to survive. Don’t be intimidated by this, and don’t let the service writer sell you services you don’t need immediately. Stay focused on what you came in for and insist, politely, that the mechanics stick to this service, noting any potential problems as they do so. You can discuss these other issues after the initial service is complete.
Make sure to also ask for a full explanation of what will be done. For example, different shops provide different arrays of services under the heading of a “brake job.” Ask questions so that you understand what is going on.
If the service writer does inform you that another issue has been encountered, make sure to be specific about the nature and extent of the problem. For example, the service writer may tell you that a pump “needs to be replaced.” Be clear about what “needs” means: has the pump failed? Does it have a flaw? Is it just very old? Establish what actually must be done and what could wait until later.
If you are having parts replaced, ask to have the old parts returned to you. You should also clarify whether the parts will be new or refurbished; new parts are, well, new, but refurbished parts may be cheaper. A great mechanic will give you different options and explain the pros and cons of each, if possible.
Also ask the service writer to show you what is wrong with the car and where work needs to be done. Talk to your mechanic as well. Take an interest in your car, how it works, and what is going wrong. Both mechanic and service writer should be willing to answer all your questions. A mechanic who is willing to take the time to educate his customers about their cars cares about his work and is passionate about his profession—and will likely do a good job taking care of your car.
If you have the time and inclination, you could also ask to watch the work being done. That way, you will gain a first-hand understanding of exactly what is going on.
Once the car is repaired, you may want to ask to take it for a brief test drive before paying, to make sure the problem is, in fact, fixed. Finally, take the time to look over your bill before paying. Make sure you know what each item on the bill is and don’t be afraid to ask. If something doesn’t look right to you, discuss it with the service writer; be polite but firm. Mechanics have been known to pad bills with extraneous items, assuming the customer won’t understand the technical language. Ask questions until you DO understand this language and avoid paying unnecessary charges.
BUILDING A RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR MECHANIC
Once you’ve found a mechanic whom you think is competent, reliable, and honest, become a loyal customer! A great mechanic is a rare and valuable asset who can greatly prolong the life of your car. These people are very skilled professionals who have to master a lot of complex and technical information. While car trouble can be frustrating and stressful, always be patient and respectful and take the time to build a strong relationship with your mechanic.
First of all, spread the word, both to your friends and through online reviews. You’ll be doing your mechanic a good turn to repay the great service he or she has given you. Also try to keep your car in good repair and have it serviced regularly, rather than waiting until a major problem arises and then panicking.
When you take your car for repairs or service, make sure to be as specific as you can about what seems to be going wrong. Communicate with your mechanic, and, once you have a relationship established, trust him if he tells you that major repairs need to be done. Try to avoid becoming defensive or hostile in such a situation. You should always bring your car in with at least ¼ tank of gas. If the mechanic needs to run your car for diagnostic purposes, not having enough gas can be very frustrating. Finally, if you drop off your car in the mornings, think about bringing donuts, muffins, or another breakfast food. A little kindness like this can go a long way in improving your relationship with your mechanic.
Be honest with your mechanic—you expect him to be honest with you! Let him or her know if you’ve had your car serviced elsewhere, or if you have tried to repair something yourself (even if you are embarrassed that this has gone horribly wrong!) He’ll find out sooner or later anyway.
Be reasonable in what you expect from your mechanic. You know the saying—cheap, fast, or good: you can have any two but never all three. Don’t expect miracles! Also, give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt. Cars are complex systems, and mistakes do happen. If a repair doesn’t fix a problem or causes a new problem, take the car back to the shop immediately and explain, politely, what you have noticed. A good shop will care about their reputation and will try to fix their mistake.
Finally, if you are very pleased with the service you receive, take the time to express your thanks in a written note to your mechanic’s boss, likely the service manager. First, writing a note indicates that you have gone out of your way to praise exceptional service. Next, your mechanic will likely see the note and could get a bonus for providing great service. Whatever the outcome, this is another small act of kindness that will help you to build a good relationship with your new mechanic.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
In terms of trustworthiness, car mechanics certainly don’t have the best reputation. However, this doesn’t mean that there aren’t f reliable and honest mechanics out there. If you’ve read my various entries on how cars work, you’ll know that even the most basic car is a very complicated and ingenious machine. The best mechanics are extremely knowledgeable and skilled professionals with a passion for their work. As you begin your search for a mechanic, look, above all, for someone who seems to enjoy and take pride in his work.
WHERE TO BEGIN
First of all, don’t wait until you have a problem to start looking for a mechanic. You’ll be under pressure to find one quickly and then will have to trust a serious to repair to someone you haven’t yet established a relationship with. Instead, try taking your car to a mechanic you are considering for a routine service, such as an oil change, and see how you feel about the service you receive. Make sure to read your owner’s manual and be familiar with the suggested service schedule, so that you know when you should be taking your car in. When you’re ready to begin the search for your new mechanic, you should take the following steps, each of which I’ll discuss in detail below:
1. Compile a list of reputable potential mechanics in your area.
2. Visit and evaluate the mechanics on your list.
3. Choose the shop that impressed you the most and take your car for an oil change. If satisfied, become a regular customer. If not, wait until your next service is due and try a different shop.
4. Build a relationship with your mechanic.
Note that large chains and dealerships are often more expensive than local mechanics. Additionally, you will be more likely to develop a strong relationship with a smaller, local shop, since maintaining a strong reputation and lasting customer relationships are very important for the survival of a small shop. If you take the time to find a local mechanic who seems trustworthy and reliable, you will save yourself money and hassle in the long run.
FINDING A MECHANIC
So, you’ve decided to find a new mechanic. Where do you begin? First, compile a list of prospective mechanics. Word of mouth is often one of the best sources of information. Ask friends, relatives, and neighbors in your area where they go to get their cars serviced. In particular, ask anyone you know who has a car that is similar to yours, as many mechanics will specialize in a particular kind of car.
There are a number of online sources that may be useful to you. NPR has a great car show, called Car Talk; check it out on the radio or via podcast if you can! The Car Talk website has a feature called the Mechan-X files, where they keep a database of mechanics. These mechanics are ranked in different categories (cost, efficiency, etc.) You can search by zip code and for different attributes; you’ll also be able to read reviews posted by visitors to the site, all at cartalk.cars.com/content/mechx/
Call the Better Business Bureau (or check out their website) to look for recommended mechanics or see if complaints have been filed against any mechanics you are considering. You may also want to look to the National Institute for Automotive Excellence (www.asecert.org) or the American Automobile Association for further advice (www.aaa.org).
Continue to ask around. Check with local auto clubs, particularly if you have a specialty car. You could also ask the local police where they have their fleet serviced. Finally, try calling your dealer’s wholesale parts department. This is the department at your dealership that sells parts to independent mechanics (avoid the department which supplies parts to the dealership’s own mechanics). Mechanics who buy their parts directly from the dealer are likely more concerned with quality than cost. Ask the parts department which mechanics frequently buy from them; they will likely be happy to recommend some of their best customers.
EVALUATING A MECHANIC
Once you’ve compiled a list of mechanics, start checking out their shops. Remember that, while you may not be an expert on cars, you do have basic knowledge about how a good business should be run and an intuitive sense of people. Trust your gut instinct about the place and the people who work there.
First, take a look at the shop and its yard. What kinds of vehicles are there? Are some similar to your car? Are the yard and shop clean and well maintained? Are the mechanics’ uniforms similarly well maintained? Are the waiting room and bathroom clean and pleasant?
These may seem like superficial questions. However, a shop that takes pride in its appearance will be more likely to take pride in its work as well. While a certain amount of grime is expected in this trade, a really slovenly shop probably isn’t a good sign.
Next, look for accreditation, both AAA and ASE (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). While ASE training doesn’t guarantee great service, it’s a good sign that the mechanics and the shop are committed to providing quality service and take pride in their work. You can see on each certificate what areas a mechanic has trained in and when. The ASE requires that those who participate in its programs keep these certifications up to date.
Ask about the shop’s policies. What kind of warranty is on offer? Does the warranty cover parts and labor? A great warranty will last for six months; 90 days is also acceptable. A 30-day warranty isn’t a good sign. Also ask about the prices; remember, though, that the cheapest shop isn’t necessarily reliable, but the most expensive shop may not be the best. You may also want to test the reliability of the shop’s pricing system. Call prospective shops and ask for a quote for a particular service. Two days later, have a friend call for the same quote. Are they the same? You may be surprised to find that some shops don’t have regular pricing schemes.
Don’t be afraid to ask the service writer—basically, the customer service representative—for the names of customers you could call for references. The staff should be friendly and willing to answer questions; if you don’t feel comfortable at a particular place, look elsewhere.
Finally, ask to take a look inside the garage itself. Notice the size of the mechanics’ tool boxes. Experienced and committed mechanics accumulate vast amounts of expensive and specialized tools. A large toolbox (roughly the size of a refrigerator or larger) indicates a mechanic has a great deal of experience.
AT THE SHOP
Once you’ve identified a shop that looks promising, take your car in for a “test” service, such as an oil change.
When you arrive at the shop, you will speak first with a service writer, unless the shop is very small. The service writer is, first and foremost, a salesman. He or she communicates with the mechanic and works to ensure the shop turns a profit, which is necessary for the shop to survive. Don’t be intimidated by this, and don’t let the service writer sell you services you don’t need immediately. Stay focused on what you came in for and insist, politely, that the mechanics stick to this service, noting any potential problems as they do so. You can discuss these other issues after the initial service is complete.
Make sure to also ask for a full explanation of what will be done. For example, different shops provide different arrays of services under the heading of a “brake job.” Ask questions so that you understand what is going on.
If the service writer does inform you that another issue has been encountered, make sure to be specific about the nature and extent of the problem. For example, the service writer may tell you that a pump “needs to be replaced.” Be clear about what “needs” means: has the pump failed? Does it have a flaw? Is it just very old? Establish what actually must be done and what could wait until later.
If you are having parts replaced, ask to have the old parts returned to you. You should also clarify whether the parts will be new or refurbished; new parts are, well, new, but refurbished parts may be cheaper. A great mechanic will give you different options and explain the pros and cons of each, if possible.
Also ask the service writer to show you what is wrong with the car and where work needs to be done. Talk to your mechanic as well. Take an interest in your car, how it works, and what is going wrong. Both mechanic and service writer should be willing to answer all your questions. A mechanic who is willing to take the time to educate his customers about their cars cares about his work and is passionate about his profession—and will likely do a good job taking care of your car.
If you have the time and inclination, you could also ask to watch the work being done. That way, you will gain a first-hand understanding of exactly what is going on.
Once the car is repaired, you may want to ask to take it for a brief test drive before paying, to make sure the problem is, in fact, fixed. Finally, take the time to look over your bill before paying. Make sure you know what each item on the bill is and don’t be afraid to ask. If something doesn’t look right to you, discuss it with the service writer; be polite but firm. Mechanics have been known to pad bills with extraneous items, assuming the customer won’t understand the technical language. Ask questions until you DO understand this language and avoid paying unnecessary charges.
BUILDING A RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR MECHANIC
Once you’ve found a mechanic whom you think is competent, reliable, and honest, become a loyal customer! A great mechanic is a rare and valuable asset who can greatly prolong the life of your car. These people are very skilled professionals who have to master a lot of complex and technical information. While car trouble can be frustrating and stressful, always be patient and respectful and take the time to build a strong relationship with your mechanic.
First of all, spread the word, both to your friends and through online reviews. You’ll be doing your mechanic a good turn to repay the great service he or she has given you. Also try to keep your car in good repair and have it serviced regularly, rather than waiting until a major problem arises and then panicking.
When you take your car for repairs or service, make sure to be as specific as you can about what seems to be going wrong. Communicate with your mechanic, and, once you have a relationship established, trust him if he tells you that major repairs need to be done. Try to avoid becoming defensive or hostile in such a situation. You should always bring your car in with at least ¼ tank of gas. If the mechanic needs to run your car for diagnostic purposes, not having enough gas can be very frustrating. Finally, if you drop off your car in the mornings, think about bringing donuts, muffins, or another breakfast food. A little kindness like this can go a long way in improving your relationship with your mechanic.
Be honest with your mechanic—you expect him to be honest with you! Let him or her know if you’ve had your car serviced elsewhere, or if you have tried to repair something yourself (even if you are embarrassed that this has gone horribly wrong!) He’ll find out sooner or later anyway.
Be reasonable in what you expect from your mechanic. You know the saying—cheap, fast, or good: you can have any two but never all three. Don’t expect miracles! Also, give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt. Cars are complex systems, and mistakes do happen. If a repair doesn’t fix a problem or causes a new problem, take the car back to the shop immediately and explain, politely, what you have noticed. A good shop will care about their reputation and will try to fix their mistake.
Finally, if you are very pleased with the service you receive, take the time to express your thanks in a written note to your mechanic’s boss, likely the service manager. First, writing a note indicates that you have gone out of your way to praise exceptional service. Next, your mechanic will likely see the note and could get a bonus for providing great service. Whatever the outcome, this is another small act of kindness that will help you to build a good relationship with your new mechanic.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
COMMON BRAKE PROBLEMS AND MAINTENANCE
Your brakes are easily one of the most important components of your car. Having well-maintained and effective brakes will go a long way towards keeping you safe on the road! Few things are more terrifying than jamming on the brakes in an emergency and finding they don’t work. Before reading further, it may be helpful to check out a previous entry on how brakes work. This will help you to understand some of the problems discussed here.
Should you experience brake failure, there are a few things you can do to slow down your car and minimize potential damage; check out these tips. However, this situation is best avoided altogether!
First, practice good driving techniques to avoid putting excess wear on your brakes. Regularly braking hard—“slamming on the brakes”—puts a great deal of strain on your brakes. Driving in stop-and-go traffic also exacerbates brake wear; if possible, try to arrange your schedule so as to avoid the worst of rush hour. While driving, don’t “ride” the brake pedal or let your foot rest on it. Also, coasting to slow down before braking can help to save your brakes. Try to plan ahead; slow down if you see cars braking ahead. Look down the road a ways to spot other hazards, stop signs, and red lights that may be coming up in your path. Also avoid carrying excess weight in your car, as this will put extra strain on your brakes. Note that several of these strategies will also help you to save gas! Finally, there are different grades of brake shoes and brake pads. While the lower grade pads are cheaper initially, they will wear out faster and often don’t perform as well. Purchasing the higher grade pads and shoes will be more cost-effective in the long run and will reduce wear on the other components of your brake system as well.
Next, pay careful attention to the feel of your brakes when braking and the sound they make. Unusual noises and feelings can be symptoms of brake problems. Here are some of the most common problems and their causes:
Brake warning light comes on: This most likely indicates that there is a leak in the system. Don’t drive until you have had the system checked out, and any leaks have been repaired.
Brake pedal “rests” at a lower position: This is usually caused by drum brake adjusters not working properly. If the adjusters are rusty or they stick, they won’t advance properly. In addition to having the brakes readjusted, you will need to have the adjusters cleaned or replaced. This could also indicate that the brake pads or shoes need to be replaced or that there is a leak in the system.
“Spongy” brake pedal: If your brakes are “soft,” i.e. the pedal doesn’t offer as much resistance when you push it, then there is likely air in hydraulic system somewhere. Your mechanic will need to “bleed” brake lines, i.e. drain and replace the oil.
Need to push pedal too far in: This could be due to a variety of problem: worn brake pads or shoes, poorly adjusted drum brakes, or air in the lines. You can pump the pedal several times to compensate for this, but you will still need to get your brakes checked as soon as possible.
Pedal pulses or vibrates when you brake: This occurs when the rotors on the disc brakes, which should be flat, are worn unevenly. As a result, they don’t make contact evenly with the pads, which then causes vibrations. The rotors need to be resurfaced or, if the problem is severe, replaced.
A scraping noise: This occurs when there is metal to metal contact in the brakes, which means that you have worn entirely through the brake pads or shoes. A brake servicing is long overdue! Driving with shoes or pads this worn can seriously damage your brakes, forcing you to replace more expensive parts in your brakes.
A squealing noise: This can be caused by vibrations between the brake pads and rotor or caliper. This may be unavoidable on some older brakes which use semi-metallic compounds in the pads. Replacing the brake pads with newer ones can help. There are a few other strategies your mechanic can use to minimize this noise. However, this could also be a more serious problem, such as worn brake pads or a missing gasket, so do get your brakes checked soon.
A jerky, “slip-and-grab” feeling: It’s likely that brake oil or another substance has leaked onto to the brake mechanism. Contaminated pads will need to be replaced and, of course, the source of the contamination has to be identified and stopped.
Pedal sinks to the floor: This occurs when pressure isn’t being maintained in the hydraulic system. This is likely a leak or a worn-out master cylinder. Don’t drive in this situation! Instead, have your car towed and fixed immediately.
Brakes don’t release properly: There are several potential causes: the springs in the drum brake are not working properly; the floating caliper in the disc brakes isn’t adjusted correctly; the emergency brake cable or mechanism is broken; or the adjuster mechanism in drum brakes has extended too far.
Car swerves to one side when brakes are applied: This means that braking power isn’t evenly distributed between the front brakes. The car will “draw” to the side with the stronger brake, as the opposite wheel now has greater driving power. It’s likely that a leak, broken piston, stuck caliper, or other mechanical failure has occurred in one of the brakes. This can also be caused, however, by different brands of brake pads being used on the two front brakes, as different makes of pad and compounds have different braking properties.
Brakes are hard or difficult to use: Usually this means that the vacuum assist isn’t working properly, forcing you to put a lot more power into the system. The booster itself could be leaky or defective, or the check valve could be failing. You can test the check valve by running the engine for a few minutes (building vacuum) and then turning off car. If you don’t have power assist after a few minutes, the check valve is broken. To test the vacuum booster itself, turn off the engine. Pump the brake pedal a few times to “bleed” all remaining vacuum from the booster. Then, restart the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. This should build vacuum in the booster again. Now, try your brakes. If there’s no power assist, this means that the vacuum booster is broken.
ABS Warning light comes on: This means that the computer has detected a problem in this system and turned it off. While this isn’t going to put you in immediate danger, it’s still better to have this system checked sooner rather than later.
Brakes lock: This is likely caused by a damaged brake pad or shoe. Have your car towed immediately.
In addition to listening for problems like these, you should also check your brake system periodically in order to stop problems before they happen. First, check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir often. If necessary, top up with fluid as needed; if the level of fluid seems to be sinking quickly, have your mechanic check for a leak.
Have your brake pads checked regularly and changed as needed. How often you will need to do this depends a lot on your driving habits and the car you drive. In general, brake shoes will need to be replaced after four rotations of brake pads.
Finally, take a moment from time to time to check that your brake lights are working.
You should have a thorough “brake job” done either when the pads are worn down or if you notice any of the symptoms above. Your mechanic will carry out a variety of routine maintenance tasks, including replacing the front pads, resurfacing the rotors, replacing the shoes (if needed), resurfacing the brake drums, bleeding the brake lines, checking for leaks, and checking and adjusting the parking brake.
More comprehensive maintenance will also include new hardware for drums—springs in particular age with exposure to heat and should be replaced—and the of rebuilding wheel cylinders and calipers.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Should you experience brake failure, there are a few things you can do to slow down your car and minimize potential damage; check out these tips. However, this situation is best avoided altogether!
First, practice good driving techniques to avoid putting excess wear on your brakes. Regularly braking hard—“slamming on the brakes”—puts a great deal of strain on your brakes. Driving in stop-and-go traffic also exacerbates brake wear; if possible, try to arrange your schedule so as to avoid the worst of rush hour. While driving, don’t “ride” the brake pedal or let your foot rest on it. Also, coasting to slow down before braking can help to save your brakes. Try to plan ahead; slow down if you see cars braking ahead. Look down the road a ways to spot other hazards, stop signs, and red lights that may be coming up in your path. Also avoid carrying excess weight in your car, as this will put extra strain on your brakes. Note that several of these strategies will also help you to save gas! Finally, there are different grades of brake shoes and brake pads. While the lower grade pads are cheaper initially, they will wear out faster and often don’t perform as well. Purchasing the higher grade pads and shoes will be more cost-effective in the long run and will reduce wear on the other components of your brake system as well.
Next, pay careful attention to the feel of your brakes when braking and the sound they make. Unusual noises and feelings can be symptoms of brake problems. Here are some of the most common problems and their causes:
Brake warning light comes on: This most likely indicates that there is a leak in the system. Don’t drive until you have had the system checked out, and any leaks have been repaired.
Brake pedal “rests” at a lower position: This is usually caused by drum brake adjusters not working properly. If the adjusters are rusty or they stick, they won’t advance properly. In addition to having the brakes readjusted, you will need to have the adjusters cleaned or replaced. This could also indicate that the brake pads or shoes need to be replaced or that there is a leak in the system.
“Spongy” brake pedal: If your brakes are “soft,” i.e. the pedal doesn’t offer as much resistance when you push it, then there is likely air in hydraulic system somewhere. Your mechanic will need to “bleed” brake lines, i.e. drain and replace the oil.
Need to push pedal too far in: This could be due to a variety of problem: worn brake pads or shoes, poorly adjusted drum brakes, or air in the lines. You can pump the pedal several times to compensate for this, but you will still need to get your brakes checked as soon as possible.
Pedal pulses or vibrates when you brake: This occurs when the rotors on the disc brakes, which should be flat, are worn unevenly. As a result, they don’t make contact evenly with the pads, which then causes vibrations. The rotors need to be resurfaced or, if the problem is severe, replaced.
A scraping noise: This occurs when there is metal to metal contact in the brakes, which means that you have worn entirely through the brake pads or shoes. A brake servicing is long overdue! Driving with shoes or pads this worn can seriously damage your brakes, forcing you to replace more expensive parts in your brakes.
A squealing noise: This can be caused by vibrations between the brake pads and rotor or caliper. This may be unavoidable on some older brakes which use semi-metallic compounds in the pads. Replacing the brake pads with newer ones can help. There are a few other strategies your mechanic can use to minimize this noise. However, this could also be a more serious problem, such as worn brake pads or a missing gasket, so do get your brakes checked soon.
A jerky, “slip-and-grab” feeling: It’s likely that brake oil or another substance has leaked onto to the brake mechanism. Contaminated pads will need to be replaced and, of course, the source of the contamination has to be identified and stopped.
Pedal sinks to the floor: This occurs when pressure isn’t being maintained in the hydraulic system. This is likely a leak or a worn-out master cylinder. Don’t drive in this situation! Instead, have your car towed and fixed immediately.
Brakes don’t release properly: There are several potential causes: the springs in the drum brake are not working properly; the floating caliper in the disc brakes isn’t adjusted correctly; the emergency brake cable or mechanism is broken; or the adjuster mechanism in drum brakes has extended too far.
Car swerves to one side when brakes are applied: This means that braking power isn’t evenly distributed between the front brakes. The car will “draw” to the side with the stronger brake, as the opposite wheel now has greater driving power. It’s likely that a leak, broken piston, stuck caliper, or other mechanical failure has occurred in one of the brakes. This can also be caused, however, by different brands of brake pads being used on the two front brakes, as different makes of pad and compounds have different braking properties.
Brakes are hard or difficult to use: Usually this means that the vacuum assist isn’t working properly, forcing you to put a lot more power into the system. The booster itself could be leaky or defective, or the check valve could be failing. You can test the check valve by running the engine for a few minutes (building vacuum) and then turning off car. If you don’t have power assist after a few minutes, the check valve is broken. To test the vacuum booster itself, turn off the engine. Pump the brake pedal a few times to “bleed” all remaining vacuum from the booster. Then, restart the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. This should build vacuum in the booster again. Now, try your brakes. If there’s no power assist, this means that the vacuum booster is broken.
ABS Warning light comes on: This means that the computer has detected a problem in this system and turned it off. While this isn’t going to put you in immediate danger, it’s still better to have this system checked sooner rather than later.
Brakes lock: This is likely caused by a damaged brake pad or shoe. Have your car towed immediately.
In addition to listening for problems like these, you should also check your brake system periodically in order to stop problems before they happen. First, check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir often. If necessary, top up with fluid as needed; if the level of fluid seems to be sinking quickly, have your mechanic check for a leak.
Have your brake pads checked regularly and changed as needed. How often you will need to do this depends a lot on your driving habits and the car you drive. In general, brake shoes will need to be replaced after four rotations of brake pads.
Finally, take a moment from time to time to check that your brake lights are working.
You should have a thorough “brake job” done either when the pads are worn down or if you notice any of the symptoms above. Your mechanic will carry out a variety of routine maintenance tasks, including replacing the front pads, resurfacing the rotors, replacing the shoes (if needed), resurfacing the brake drums, bleeding the brake lines, checking for leaks, and checking and adjusting the parking brake.
More comprehensive maintenance will also include new hardware for drums—springs in particular age with exposure to heat and should be replaced—and the of rebuilding wheel cylinders and calipers.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about defensive driving and business driver safety.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS: COMMON PROBLEMS AND MAINTENANCE
Before reading this entry, you may want to check out my previous entry on how an automatic transmission works since this will provide some useful background information that will help you to understand how and why these transmissions can fail.
Unlike an engine, which can exhibit any number of odd symptoms when a problem occurs, an ailing automatic transmission will generally display one of a handful of symptoms:
· Car won’t go into gear at all
· Shifts are delayed or uneven (jerky or too sudden)
· Unusual noises occur during shifts
· “Slipping” occurs when the car is in gear
· Car won’t go into low or reverse gears
· Vehicle tries to move while in park or neutral
· Shift lever is difficult to move
If the transmission won’t go at all (or if shifts aren’t smooth), your best bet is to check the transmission fluid. For step-by-step instructions on how to do this, see my previous entry on engine maintenance. You may need to add extra fluid if the level is too low. If this problem occurs repeatedly, it’s likely that there’s a leak in the system that will need to be repaired by a professional. Note that automatic transmission fluid is usually a deep red color, unlike engine oil, which is a light brown. If you notice red fluid leaking from your car or on your engine, then a leak is most likely present in your transmission.
A clogged filter could also keep a transmission from functioning properly. If you’ve never had your transmission’s filter replaced, have your mechanic do so the next time your car is serviced. The problem could also lie in the pump. If the pump isn’t maintaining fluid pressure, then the complex hydraulic system that powers the transmission won’t function.
Delayed engagement, i.e. a lag time between when you shift gears and when the car actually starts moving, can also indicate a problem with the transmission. This will be most noticeable when the car has just begun to run, so if you want to check for transmission problems, the best time to do so would be right after you’ve started the engine and are ready to drive. The transmission should engage almost immediately after a gear is selected. If this doesn’t happen, there’s likely a problem developing.
Delayed shifting is often caused by valves sticking the valve body, which prevents shifts from happening when they should. On newer cars, which control shifts using a computer, the problem could lie in the shift solenoids that are used to trigger shifts. If this is the case, these components of the transmission will likely need to be serviced or replaced. If the problem lies in the computer itself, then a reconfiguring of the computer is likely all that is necessary. Automatic transmissions also contain spring-loaded dampeners, called accumulators, which ensure that shifts happen gently. If the car suddenly jerks or slams into gear, i.e. the reverse of delayed shifting occurs, then the accumulators are likely to blame.
Slipping is another problem that can indicate something is wrong with your transmission. If you press the accelerator and the RPM increases but the speed doesn’t, this means that the transmission is going into gear but isn’t staying there. This is likely a sign that one of clutch packs or bands has burned out. Check your transmission fluid: if it’s dark, discolored, or burnt-smelling, then a ruined clutch is likely the culprit.
If the vehicle has difficulty with reverse or low gear, then the most likely problem is in the torque converter. The torque converter contains a one-way clutch that only allows components to spin in one direction. If this isn’t working properly, then the vehicle won’t go into low or reverse gears.
Finally, the problem could be purely mechanical, i.e. a broken component or stripped gear. Look carefully under the hood, as metal shavings or chips could indicate that one or more gears have been stripped. If this happens, you will likely have to have your transmission rebuilt.
Maintenance
So, what can you do to prevent these problems from occurring? The most important thing is to be sensitive to the sounds and functions of your transmission so that you can notice any odd behavior as soon as it begins. The transmission is a sensitive and complex system, in which small problems can very quickly escalate into major ones. Since this system is so expensive to repair, nipping any problem in the bud will save time, money, and hassle.
Even if you don’t notice any problems with your transmission, you should still check your transmission fluid twice a year. Maintaining proper fluid levels can help to prevent problems from developing. In addition to checking the level of the fluid, check the color and odor, just as you would when checking the oil level.
Next, remember that transmission oil, like engine oil, needs to be replaced at appropriate intervals. While a complete servicing done at a dealership will most likely include a change of transmission oil, your local mechanic may not do so at every servicing. Make sure that you keep complete and accurate records of your car’s service history, including each oil change. That way, you will know if a transmission oil change is overdue. For guidelines on when such a change must be done, see your owner’s manual, which will recommend the appropriate timeline for transmission oil changes and the grade of oil which should be used. Make sure that the oil filter is changed along with the oil. Also have your mechanic check carefully for any leaks in the system when the car is serviced.
Additionally, try to avoid driving behaviors that can place excess strain on the transmission. “Rocking” a vehicle to get it out of a snow bank or rut can easily destroy a transmission in minutes. This is because this “back and forth” gear shifting causes the transmission to heat up, which will result in rubber parts—like the very important seals and gaskets—failing. The transmission fluid will also burn off, and metal parts can warp. All of this leads to a useless transmission. Towing a heavy load, driving in continuous stop and go traffic in hot weather, and racing can also cause a transmission to overheat.
Finally, towing the car with the drive wheels (front or back, depending on the car) still on the road can damage a transmission as well. Your towing company should know better, but just in case, be on the safe side and check.
Even when properly cared for, however, transmissions can still break down. So, if you do notice anything amiss, get it checked out sooner rather than later.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Unlike an engine, which can exhibit any number of odd symptoms when a problem occurs, an ailing automatic transmission will generally display one of a handful of symptoms:
· Car won’t go into gear at all
· Shifts are delayed or uneven (jerky or too sudden)
· Unusual noises occur during shifts
· “Slipping” occurs when the car is in gear
· Car won’t go into low or reverse gears
· Vehicle tries to move while in park or neutral
· Shift lever is difficult to move
If the transmission won’t go at all (or if shifts aren’t smooth), your best bet is to check the transmission fluid. For step-by-step instructions on how to do this, see my previous entry on engine maintenance. You may need to add extra fluid if the level is too low. If this problem occurs repeatedly, it’s likely that there’s a leak in the system that will need to be repaired by a professional. Note that automatic transmission fluid is usually a deep red color, unlike engine oil, which is a light brown. If you notice red fluid leaking from your car or on your engine, then a leak is most likely present in your transmission.
A clogged filter could also keep a transmission from functioning properly. If you’ve never had your transmission’s filter replaced, have your mechanic do so the next time your car is serviced. The problem could also lie in the pump. If the pump isn’t maintaining fluid pressure, then the complex hydraulic system that powers the transmission won’t function.
Delayed engagement, i.e. a lag time between when you shift gears and when the car actually starts moving, can also indicate a problem with the transmission. This will be most noticeable when the car has just begun to run, so if you want to check for transmission problems, the best time to do so would be right after you’ve started the engine and are ready to drive. The transmission should engage almost immediately after a gear is selected. If this doesn’t happen, there’s likely a problem developing.
Delayed shifting is often caused by valves sticking the valve body, which prevents shifts from happening when they should. On newer cars, which control shifts using a computer, the problem could lie in the shift solenoids that are used to trigger shifts. If this is the case, these components of the transmission will likely need to be serviced or replaced. If the problem lies in the computer itself, then a reconfiguring of the computer is likely all that is necessary. Automatic transmissions also contain spring-loaded dampeners, called accumulators, which ensure that shifts happen gently. If the car suddenly jerks or slams into gear, i.e. the reverse of delayed shifting occurs, then the accumulators are likely to blame.
Slipping is another problem that can indicate something is wrong with your transmission. If you press the accelerator and the RPM increases but the speed doesn’t, this means that the transmission is going into gear but isn’t staying there. This is likely a sign that one of clutch packs or bands has burned out. Check your transmission fluid: if it’s dark, discolored, or burnt-smelling, then a ruined clutch is likely the culprit.
If the vehicle has difficulty with reverse or low gear, then the most likely problem is in the torque converter. The torque converter contains a one-way clutch that only allows components to spin in one direction. If this isn’t working properly, then the vehicle won’t go into low or reverse gears.
Finally, the problem could be purely mechanical, i.e. a broken component or stripped gear. Look carefully under the hood, as metal shavings or chips could indicate that one or more gears have been stripped. If this happens, you will likely have to have your transmission rebuilt.
Maintenance
So, what can you do to prevent these problems from occurring? The most important thing is to be sensitive to the sounds and functions of your transmission so that you can notice any odd behavior as soon as it begins. The transmission is a sensitive and complex system, in which small problems can very quickly escalate into major ones. Since this system is so expensive to repair, nipping any problem in the bud will save time, money, and hassle.
Even if you don’t notice any problems with your transmission, you should still check your transmission fluid twice a year. Maintaining proper fluid levels can help to prevent problems from developing. In addition to checking the level of the fluid, check the color and odor, just as you would when checking the oil level.
Next, remember that transmission oil, like engine oil, needs to be replaced at appropriate intervals. While a complete servicing done at a dealership will most likely include a change of transmission oil, your local mechanic may not do so at every servicing. Make sure that you keep complete and accurate records of your car’s service history, including each oil change. That way, you will know if a transmission oil change is overdue. For guidelines on when such a change must be done, see your owner’s manual, which will recommend the appropriate timeline for transmission oil changes and the grade of oil which should be used. Make sure that the oil filter is changed along with the oil. Also have your mechanic check carefully for any leaks in the system when the car is serviced.
Additionally, try to avoid driving behaviors that can place excess strain on the transmission. “Rocking” a vehicle to get it out of a snow bank or rut can easily destroy a transmission in minutes. This is because this “back and forth” gear shifting causes the transmission to heat up, which will result in rubber parts—like the very important seals and gaskets—failing. The transmission fluid will also burn off, and metal parts can warp. All of this leads to a useless transmission. Towing a heavy load, driving in continuous stop and go traffic in hot weather, and racing can also cause a transmission to overheat.
Finally, towing the car with the drive wheels (front or back, depending on the car) still on the road can damage a transmission as well. Your towing company should know better, but just in case, be on the safe side and check.
Even when properly cared for, however, transmissions can still break down. So, if you do notice anything amiss, get it checked out sooner rather than later.
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Keeping It Clean: Car Exteriors
A well-washed car is a thing of beauty: bright and shiny, the envy of the parking lot. A dirty car, on the other hand, invites derision; children write “wash me” in the grime on the rear window. Beyond maintaining aesthetic value and avoiding personal shame, however, keeping your car clean has a practical purpose. Grime and dirt retain moisture, which speeds up rust and corrosion, thereby ageing your car prematurely. A well maintained car will look almost new after ten years on the road, while a poorly kept car may look ancient after just two or three years.
As a last resort, you can take your car to an automated drive-through carwash. This is, however, a bit like washing your face with steel wool and a hairdryer; the harsh environment of an automated car wash will eventually do more harm than good to your car’s delicate paint finish. Take the time to wash your car yourself. It won’t take more than an hour, and you’ll be proud of the results. Plus, it’s nice to be outside on a fine day, and cleaning can be a soothing and meditative activity.
There are three steps to washing a car: washing, polishing, and waxing. The first step, washing, should be done every month or so to prevent grime build up. The next two steps can be done every three-four months, as a good coat of wax should last about this long. Polishing helps to remove surface imperfections like small scratches and prepares the surface for waxing. Waxing then creates a protective coating over the paint job and helps to “seal” any chips or cracks. If you haven’t waxed your car in recent memory (or ever), consider taking it to a detailing shop first. There, professionals will use an electric buffer to remove minor scratches and impurities in the paint before waxing; this will make it easier for you to apply wax yourself in the future.
What You’ll Need
· A garden hose
· Two buckets full of warm or cold water
· A car soap or shampoo (avoid using other soaps, like dish detergent, that aren’t specifically formatted for cars, as these can damage the paint)
· Two soft cloths or wash mitts
· 100% cotton towels, chamois leather, or microfiber cloths
· Car polish
· Buffer pad for applying polish and towel for removing it
· Car wax
· Sponge for applying wax
· Steel wool and/or brush for cleaning tires
Washing
1. Choose the right day. You want a day that is warm enough for you to be outside for a while, but not too hot, or the car will dry quickly and you’ll end up with soap and water stains. Overcast days are great; otherwise, pick a shady spot for your washing.
2. Mix your car soap into one of the buckets filled with water. Check the bottle and be sure to use the recommended amount. Too much soap can damage the car’s finish, while too little won’t get the job done. Use the other bucket for rinsing out your cloths, so that you don’t get grime in the water you’re using to wash the car.
3. Next, hose down the car to remove outer layers of dirt. Avoid using pressure hoses, as these can damage chipped or cracked paint.
4. Wet one of your soft cloths and begin washing the car. Start at the top of the car and work your way down. Since the bottom of the car is usually much dirtier than the rest, you may want to use a different cloth for tackling this part of the car.
5. Rinse off each section of the car after washing it. You don’t want to let the soap dry, or you’ll end up with streaks.
6. As you progress around the car, keep rinsing the car off with the hose, so that the surface stays wet. Allowing the car to air dry will result in water spots.
7. Once you’ve washed the body of the car, use the steel wool and brush to clean the tires and the tire wells, where a lot of dirt tends to accumulate.
8. Finally, dry the car. Chamois leather or microfiber cloths, which are soft and absorbent, are ideal for this. However, 100% cotton towels make good substitutes for these products. To dry the car, lay a cloth over one section of the car to blot up the water. Then, use a dry towel to absorb the remaining moisture.
Polishing and Waxing
1. Once the car is dry, begin to polish it. Apply a 1-inch circle of polish to your buffer pad. Then apply this polish to a 2-foot square of car exterior.
2. Apply the polish in a circular motion. Finish with a few back-and-forth strokes to make sure you’ve evenly covered the area.
3. Allow the polish to dry. Then, remove it with a dry cloth or polish removal mitt.
4. Once you’ve polished the car, it’s time to apply the wax. First, make sure to get a good quality wax (often with Carnauba wax in it.) Avoid getting a wax with abrasives. Read the labeling carefully and test the wax on a small and unobtrusive part of the car first.
5. Provided your test goes okay, proceed to wax the rest of the car. Apply wax to the sponge and spread it in a thin and even layer over the surface of the car. Avoid getting wax on plastic and rubber trim, as it can stain these parts of the car. If you do get wax on these surfaces, you can clean it off with window cleaner.
6. Once the wax has dried, use another dry towel to buff the wax to a high shine.
Additional Steps
1. If you like, you can apply tire finish to tires to give them a black and shiny glow. However, beware that these products can stain your driveway, so if you don’t want black marks there, put newspapers underneath your wheels.
2. You can also use products like trim preserver and window polish to enhance the shine of glass and rubber components.
Stay tuned for part two—how to clean the interior of your car!
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
As a last resort, you can take your car to an automated drive-through carwash. This is, however, a bit like washing your face with steel wool and a hairdryer; the harsh environment of an automated car wash will eventually do more harm than good to your car’s delicate paint finish. Take the time to wash your car yourself. It won’t take more than an hour, and you’ll be proud of the results. Plus, it’s nice to be outside on a fine day, and cleaning can be a soothing and meditative activity.
There are three steps to washing a car: washing, polishing, and waxing. The first step, washing, should be done every month or so to prevent grime build up. The next two steps can be done every three-four months, as a good coat of wax should last about this long. Polishing helps to remove surface imperfections like small scratches and prepares the surface for waxing. Waxing then creates a protective coating over the paint job and helps to “seal” any chips or cracks. If you haven’t waxed your car in recent memory (or ever), consider taking it to a detailing shop first. There, professionals will use an electric buffer to remove minor scratches and impurities in the paint before waxing; this will make it easier for you to apply wax yourself in the future.
What You’ll Need
· A garden hose
· Two buckets full of warm or cold water
· A car soap or shampoo (avoid using other soaps, like dish detergent, that aren’t specifically formatted for cars, as these can damage the paint)
· Two soft cloths or wash mitts
· 100% cotton towels, chamois leather, or microfiber cloths
· Car polish
· Buffer pad for applying polish and towel for removing it
· Car wax
· Sponge for applying wax
· Steel wool and/or brush for cleaning tires
Washing
1. Choose the right day. You want a day that is warm enough for you to be outside for a while, but not too hot, or the car will dry quickly and you’ll end up with soap and water stains. Overcast days are great; otherwise, pick a shady spot for your washing.
2. Mix your car soap into one of the buckets filled with water. Check the bottle and be sure to use the recommended amount. Too much soap can damage the car’s finish, while too little won’t get the job done. Use the other bucket for rinsing out your cloths, so that you don’t get grime in the water you’re using to wash the car.
3. Next, hose down the car to remove outer layers of dirt. Avoid using pressure hoses, as these can damage chipped or cracked paint.
4. Wet one of your soft cloths and begin washing the car. Start at the top of the car and work your way down. Since the bottom of the car is usually much dirtier than the rest, you may want to use a different cloth for tackling this part of the car.
5. Rinse off each section of the car after washing it. You don’t want to let the soap dry, or you’ll end up with streaks.
6. As you progress around the car, keep rinsing the car off with the hose, so that the surface stays wet. Allowing the car to air dry will result in water spots.
7. Once you’ve washed the body of the car, use the steel wool and brush to clean the tires and the tire wells, where a lot of dirt tends to accumulate.
8. Finally, dry the car. Chamois leather or microfiber cloths, which are soft and absorbent, are ideal for this. However, 100% cotton towels make good substitutes for these products. To dry the car, lay a cloth over one section of the car to blot up the water. Then, use a dry towel to absorb the remaining moisture.
Polishing and Waxing
1. Once the car is dry, begin to polish it. Apply a 1-inch circle of polish to your buffer pad. Then apply this polish to a 2-foot square of car exterior.
2. Apply the polish in a circular motion. Finish with a few back-and-forth strokes to make sure you’ve evenly covered the area.
3. Allow the polish to dry. Then, remove it with a dry cloth or polish removal mitt.
4. Once you’ve polished the car, it’s time to apply the wax. First, make sure to get a good quality wax (often with Carnauba wax in it.) Avoid getting a wax with abrasives. Read the labeling carefully and test the wax on a small and unobtrusive part of the car first.
5. Provided your test goes okay, proceed to wax the rest of the car. Apply wax to the sponge and spread it in a thin and even layer over the surface of the car. Avoid getting wax on plastic and rubber trim, as it can stain these parts of the car. If you do get wax on these surfaces, you can clean it off with window cleaner.
6. Once the wax has dried, use another dry towel to buff the wax to a high shine.
Additional Steps
1. If you like, you can apply tire finish to tires to give them a black and shiny glow. However, beware that these products can stain your driveway, so if you don’t want black marks there, put newspapers underneath your wheels.
2. You can also use products like trim preserver and window polish to enhance the shine of glass and rubber components.
Stay tuned for part two—how to clean the interior of your car!
To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Monday, August 23, 2010
Engine Maintenance- a little goes a long way!
Now that we’ve discussed some common engine problems, let’s look at ways that you—together with a trusted mechanic—can nip these problems in the bud and prolong the life of your engine.
First, take the time to find a mechanic in your area whom you trust. If you’ve just acquired a car or moved to a new area, take some time to shop around and get quotes from different mechanics. I’ll write more about this in a later entry, but for now, remember that having a good relationship with your mechanic will take stress out of your life and the life of your car.
Next, make sure to follow the tune-up schedule recommended by your car’s manufacturer. You can find this information in your owner’s manual. How often your car needs a tune-up depends on how much you drive, so this schedule will be listed in terms of both time and distance driven. A general rule of thumb is to have a major tune-up every two years or 30,000 miles (whichever comes first), with interim oil changes every 6 months or 6,000 miles (again, whichever comes first.) However, the exact schedule will vary from car to car.
At a major tune-up, your mechanic will inspect, clean, and often replace the parts of your engine that experience the most severe wear and tear. At a tune-up, a mechanic will often:
· Replace the spark plugs
· Replace the fuel filter and the air filter
· Replace the distributor cap
· Check the ignition timing
· Check the timing belts and replace if needed
· Clean and service the battery
In between major services, however, there are a number of small things you can do to make sure your engine is still in good working order. This way, you can spot potential problems before they develop into major issues.
CHECK YOUR OIL AND COOLANT
These are easy and very satisfying tasks; for those of us who don’t think of ourselves as “car people,” checking your own oil and coolant can give you a feeling of accomplishment. Try to check your oil at least once every two weeks.
First, park on level ground and wait for your engine to cool down before opening your hood. Then, locate your oil dipstick and coolant reservoir. The oil dipstick is often marked as “oil” and/or will be brightly colored (red, yellow, or orange.) It’s generally very easy to spot, as is the coolant reservoir. This will be a translucent tank off to one side of the engine, with “high” and “low” marked on it. See figure 1 below.
Figure 1: a typical car engine
Once you’ve located the oil dipstick, pull it out and wipe it off using a rag or paper towel. Then, stick it back in, wait a second, and carefully pull it out again. It’s important to do this in order to get a clear and accurate reading of the oil level.
Figure 2: oil dipstick, side view
Your dipstick will have a “high” and a “low” mark. Sometimes these will be marked with lines or with different patterns of scoring. You want to check that the oil level is close to—but not above— the “high” mark. If the oil level is too high, it’s likely something else is leaking into your oil tank. If the oil level is too low, you should add oil; if you aren’t familiar with how to do so, take your car to a local service station. Do, however, make sure that you only add the grade of oil specified by your car’s manufacturer. You also want to check the oil color. The oil should be a light golden brown and should be translucent. If it’s dark or opaque, it’s time for an oil change. If it’s a cloudy white color, then coolant or water is leaking into your oil tank.
Figure 3: tip of an oil dipstick
While the oil level is fine in the picture above, notice that the oil is a very dark brown color. This means that the oil is fairly old and should be changed soon, although not necessarily immediately.
To check your coolant, simply locate the “high” and “low” marks on the coolant reservoir and make sure that the coolant level is within these limits. WARNING: don’t take the radiator cap off when you check the coolant levels; if the system is still warm, there will be pressure in the radiator. Removing the cap could cause a nasty burn. If you have trouble seeing the coolant level in your tank (perhaps because your engine, like mine, is quite old), you can try shining a flashlight through the tank to better illuminate the fluid level.
Figure 4: coolant reservoir
CHECK YOUR BELTS
While you’ve got your hood open, take a moment to check the timing belts on your engine. You’ll see these near the front of the engine. They look like long elastic bands that have been stretched from the bottom to the top of the engine well.
Figure 5: timing belt
Check the belts to make sure that they don’t look frayed, cracked, or worn. If a belt looks damaged in any way, take your car to your mechanic for a tune-up.
CHECK YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
If you have a car with automatic transmission, you should also check your automatic transmission fluid about once a month. You may also want to check the fluid level if you notice anything odd about the way your car is (or isn’t) shifting gears.
First, consult the owner’s manual of your car. This manual will tell you where the dipstick for the transmission fluid is located. It will also let you know if the car engine needs to be running when you check the fluid (this is the case for many cars.)
Then, park in a level area and follow the same procedure as for checking the oil: pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, reinsert it, and then pull it out again. If the car engine is running or has just been running (i.e. the engine is still warm,) then the fluid should be at or near the upper “HOT” mark. If the engine is cold, then the fluid level should be at the lower “COLD” mark. The fluid should be clean, slightly pink and transparent; if it’s black, brown, or burnt-smelling, then it’s time to replace the fluid.
Overall, be aware of how your engine sounds and runs, and don’t be afraid to look under the hood from time to time! It’s not as daunting as it may seem.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
First, take the time to find a mechanic in your area whom you trust. If you’ve just acquired a car or moved to a new area, take some time to shop around and get quotes from different mechanics. I’ll write more about this in a later entry, but for now, remember that having a good relationship with your mechanic will take stress out of your life and the life of your car.
Next, make sure to follow the tune-up schedule recommended by your car’s manufacturer. You can find this information in your owner’s manual. How often your car needs a tune-up depends on how much you drive, so this schedule will be listed in terms of both time and distance driven. A general rule of thumb is to have a major tune-up every two years or 30,000 miles (whichever comes first), with interim oil changes every 6 months or 6,000 miles (again, whichever comes first.) However, the exact schedule will vary from car to car.
At a major tune-up, your mechanic will inspect, clean, and often replace the parts of your engine that experience the most severe wear and tear. At a tune-up, a mechanic will often:
· Replace the spark plugs
· Replace the fuel filter and the air filter
· Replace the distributor cap
· Check the ignition timing
· Check the timing belts and replace if needed
· Clean and service the battery
In between major services, however, there are a number of small things you can do to make sure your engine is still in good working order. This way, you can spot potential problems before they develop into major issues.
CHECK YOUR OIL AND COOLANT
These are easy and very satisfying tasks; for those of us who don’t think of ourselves as “car people,” checking your own oil and coolant can give you a feeling of accomplishment. Try to check your oil at least once every two weeks.
First, park on level ground and wait for your engine to cool down before opening your hood. Then, locate your oil dipstick and coolant reservoir. The oil dipstick is often marked as “oil” and/or will be brightly colored (red, yellow, or orange.) It’s generally very easy to spot, as is the coolant reservoir. This will be a translucent tank off to one side of the engine, with “high” and “low” marked on it. See figure 1 below.
Figure 1: a typical car engine
Once you’ve located the oil dipstick, pull it out and wipe it off using a rag or paper towel. Then, stick it back in, wait a second, and carefully pull it out again. It’s important to do this in order to get a clear and accurate reading of the oil level.
Figure 2: oil dipstick, side view
Your dipstick will have a “high” and a “low” mark. Sometimes these will be marked with lines or with different patterns of scoring. You want to check that the oil level is close to—but not above— the “high” mark. If the oil level is too high, it’s likely something else is leaking into your oil tank. If the oil level is too low, you should add oil; if you aren’t familiar with how to do so, take your car to a local service station. Do, however, make sure that you only add the grade of oil specified by your car’s manufacturer. You also want to check the oil color. The oil should be a light golden brown and should be translucent. If it’s dark or opaque, it’s time for an oil change. If it’s a cloudy white color, then coolant or water is leaking into your oil tank.
Figure 3: tip of an oil dipstick
While the oil level is fine in the picture above, notice that the oil is a very dark brown color. This means that the oil is fairly old and should be changed soon, although not necessarily immediately.
To check your coolant, simply locate the “high” and “low” marks on the coolant reservoir and make sure that the coolant level is within these limits. WARNING: don’t take the radiator cap off when you check the coolant levels; if the system is still warm, there will be pressure in the radiator. Removing the cap could cause a nasty burn. If you have trouble seeing the coolant level in your tank (perhaps because your engine, like mine, is quite old), you can try shining a flashlight through the tank to better illuminate the fluid level.
Figure 4: coolant reservoir
CHECK YOUR BELTS
While you’ve got your hood open, take a moment to check the timing belts on your engine. You’ll see these near the front of the engine. They look like long elastic bands that have been stretched from the bottom to the top of the engine well.
Figure 5: timing belt
Check the belts to make sure that they don’t look frayed, cracked, or worn. If a belt looks damaged in any way, take your car to your mechanic for a tune-up.
CHECK YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
If you have a car with automatic transmission, you should also check your automatic transmission fluid about once a month. You may also want to check the fluid level if you notice anything odd about the way your car is (or isn’t) shifting gears.
First, consult the owner’s manual of your car. This manual will tell you where the dipstick for the transmission fluid is located. It will also let you know if the car engine needs to be running when you check the fluid (this is the case for many cars.)
Then, park in a level area and follow the same procedure as for checking the oil: pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, reinsert it, and then pull it out again. If the car engine is running or has just been running (i.e. the engine is still warm,) then the fluid should be at or near the upper “HOT” mark. If the engine is cold, then the fluid level should be at the lower “COLD” mark. The fluid should be clean, slightly pink and transparent; if it’s black, brown, or burnt-smelling, then it’s time to replace the fluid.
Overall, be aware of how your engine sounds and runs, and don’t be afraid to look under the hood from time to time! It’s not as daunting as it may seem.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
Friday, August 6, 2010
THE ENGINE: COMMON PROBLEMS AND MAINTENANCE, Part 1
Now that we’ve reviewed the basic principles of engine operation, I’d like to discuss a few of the most common engine problems, how you can identify these problems, and what basic maintenance you should do in order to prevent serious issues from occurring. Even if you don’t have the technical know-how to diagnose or repair your car yourself, having a general idea of what might be going wrong and why will definitely keep you from panicking when faced with an engine issue. Learning to identify common warning signs will also help you to ensure that little problems don’t escalate into bigger ones.
What if your engine won’t start?
First of all, ask yourself: do I hear the engine cranking? If you do hear a cranking sound (i.e. the starting motor driving the crankshaft) but the engine still doesn’t start, then a variety of things could be going wrong.
First, there could be a lack of compression. Remember that if the pistons can’t compress the air in the cylinder, the fuel-air mix won’t ignite. Lack of compression could be caused a faulty seal, either in the valves or the piston ring, or by a hole in the cylinder.
Alternatively, the valve timing could be off, so that the air fuel mix isn’t coming in or the exhaust isn’t going out. There could be a fault in the ignition system, meaning that either the spark plugs aren’t sparking or the timing of the sparks is off. If you’ve run low on oil, then it could mean that the piston isn’t able to move freely in the cylinder. Obviously, lack of fuel could be a cause; this doesn’t necessarily mean that your tank is empty. It could be that your fuel pump isn’t working properly, or the fuel filter is clogged. There could also be a bad fuel mix, meaning that there is either too much air or too much fuel entering the cylinder. This could be caused by the fuel pump or the fuel filter or by water in the gas tank.
If you don’t hear your engine cranking at all or if it is cranking very slowly, then you most likely have a dead battery (lucky for you—this is very easy to fix!). You can jumpstart your car (see previous entry) to get on the road again; if your battery goes dead again, however, it’s probably time for a new one.
What if your engine makes funny noises?
Engine noises can be one of the first clues you’ll have that something isn’t going right. If you notice your engine making an unusual noise, take careful note of the type of noise and when it occurs. For example, does it always happen when you’ve just started the car, or after you’ve been driving a long time? When braking, or when going up hills? Is it a grinding, whining, or clicking sound?
Then, take your car to a trusted service station to have the noise checked out. Since sounds are an important diagnostic tool for technicians, the more detail you can give in your description, the better the chances are that your service station will be able to identify the issue quickly.
Once common—and disturbing—engine noise is backfiring. This is the sound of a minor explosion coming out of your tail pipe. Backfiring occurs when something goes wrong in the combustion process. Possible causes include: a clogged air intake, poorly fitted spark plug wires, incorrect fuel-to-air ratio, and an impurity in the fuel.
If you notice a knocking sound coming from your engine, don’t delay taking your car to be serviced, as this could indicate one of a number of serious issues.
What if your engine overheats and/or you notice smoke rising from the engine?
The most obvious cause of overheating is a lack of coolant in the cooling system. Once you’ve stopped your car, check the level of coolant in the reservoir (I’ll explain how to do this in part two.)
There are a few other common causes of overheating. First, there could be a build-up of deposits in the water jacket around the cylinders; these deposits impede the transfer of heat from cylinder to water. A broken cooling fan or broken water pump would also keep the cooling system from working properly, as would a twisted or broken radiator hose.
What if your exhaust smoke is a funny color?
Ideally, you shouldn’t really be able to see your exhaust smoke, aside from a few puffs on cold mornings. A bit of pale grey smoke is probably also okay. However, if you notice large amounts of dark or thick smoke, it’s a sign that your engine probably isn’t running properly. Do take the time to check the color and density of exhaust smoke occasionally.
Black smoke: This looks dramatic but is likely the result of fairly minor issues. Black smoke is caused when excess fuel is burned in the cylinders, meaning that there is too much fuel in the fuel and air mix. This could be caused by a dirty or clogged air filter. A faulty fuel pump, a carburetor (device that mixes fuel and air, primarily in older cars) that isn’t properly adjusted, or a faulty engine computer could also be the underlying cause.
White Smoke: This white smoke is actually steam that is produced when either water or antifreeze gets into the cylinder and burns along with the fuel and air mixture. This probably means that one of the gaskets, which separate the cooling system from the cylinder, is cracked or leaking. Check your oil as well to see if antifreeze has leaked into the oil (the oil will be cloudy.) See part two for more information on how to check your oil.
Blue smoke: This indicates that your engine is burning oil. Broken or stuck piston rings—i.e. the seals between the piston and cylinder—are the most common culprit. Check your oil levels carefully to see if you notice a leak. If too much oil gets into the cylinder, it will wreck the spark plugs, so it’s best to check this sooner rather than later.
As we’ve discussed, the engine is a fairly complex machine, and lots of different problems can occur. I’ve outlined a few of the most common and easy to diagnose here. In part two, I’ll cover a few of the basic maintenance tasks you can carry out to help ensure that your engine doesn’t develop any of the problems in the first place.
How to maintain your car:
1. Check your oil (once a week)
a. Car at level spot
b. Wait awhile for engine to cool and oil to collect in oil pan.
c. Pull the engine oil dipstick out. (Usually labeled OR indicated in owner’s manual.)
d. Wipe it off, and then insert it again.
e. Oil should be at- or close to- the “full mark.”
f. Oil should be transparent—not cloudy—and a light golden colour. If your oil is a milky white or black color, have your car serviced immediately.
2. Check automatic transmission fluid. Cold engine- “cold” mark (lower one); hot engine— “hot” mark (upper one)
3. Check coolant level (should be between low and full marks.) Add coolant after car has cooled down. (Don’t take the radiator cap off to do so! May be under pressure.) Also check manual; normally a translucent white reservoir to one side of the engine.
4. Check the rubber drive belts at the front of your engine; make sure they aren’t too worn or frayed
5. Have your car serviced: oil and filter change every 5000 miles, full service once a year. More on this in a later entry.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
What if your engine won’t start?
First of all, ask yourself: do I hear the engine cranking? If you do hear a cranking sound (i.e. the starting motor driving the crankshaft) but the engine still doesn’t start, then a variety of things could be going wrong.
First, there could be a lack of compression. Remember that if the pistons can’t compress the air in the cylinder, the fuel-air mix won’t ignite. Lack of compression could be caused a faulty seal, either in the valves or the piston ring, or by a hole in the cylinder.
Alternatively, the valve timing could be off, so that the air fuel mix isn’t coming in or the exhaust isn’t going out. There could be a fault in the ignition system, meaning that either the spark plugs aren’t sparking or the timing of the sparks is off. If you’ve run low on oil, then it could mean that the piston isn’t able to move freely in the cylinder. Obviously, lack of fuel could be a cause; this doesn’t necessarily mean that your tank is empty. It could be that your fuel pump isn’t working properly, or the fuel filter is clogged. There could also be a bad fuel mix, meaning that there is either too much air or too much fuel entering the cylinder. This could be caused by the fuel pump or the fuel filter or by water in the gas tank.
If you don’t hear your engine cranking at all or if it is cranking very slowly, then you most likely have a dead battery (lucky for you—this is very easy to fix!). You can jumpstart your car (see previous entry) to get on the road again; if your battery goes dead again, however, it’s probably time for a new one.
What if your engine makes funny noises?
Engine noises can be one of the first clues you’ll have that something isn’t going right. If you notice your engine making an unusual noise, take careful note of the type of noise and when it occurs. For example, does it always happen when you’ve just started the car, or after you’ve been driving a long time? When braking, or when going up hills? Is it a grinding, whining, or clicking sound?
Then, take your car to a trusted service station to have the noise checked out. Since sounds are an important diagnostic tool for technicians, the more detail you can give in your description, the better the chances are that your service station will be able to identify the issue quickly.
Once common—and disturbing—engine noise is backfiring. This is the sound of a minor explosion coming out of your tail pipe. Backfiring occurs when something goes wrong in the combustion process. Possible causes include: a clogged air intake, poorly fitted spark plug wires, incorrect fuel-to-air ratio, and an impurity in the fuel.
If you notice a knocking sound coming from your engine, don’t delay taking your car to be serviced, as this could indicate one of a number of serious issues.
What if your engine overheats and/or you notice smoke rising from the engine?
The most obvious cause of overheating is a lack of coolant in the cooling system. Once you’ve stopped your car, check the level of coolant in the reservoir (I’ll explain how to do this in part two.)
There are a few other common causes of overheating. First, there could be a build-up of deposits in the water jacket around the cylinders; these deposits impede the transfer of heat from cylinder to water. A broken cooling fan or broken water pump would also keep the cooling system from working properly, as would a twisted or broken radiator hose.
What if your exhaust smoke is a funny color?
Ideally, you shouldn’t really be able to see your exhaust smoke, aside from a few puffs on cold mornings. A bit of pale grey smoke is probably also okay. However, if you notice large amounts of dark or thick smoke, it’s a sign that your engine probably isn’t running properly. Do take the time to check the color and density of exhaust smoke occasionally.
Black smoke: This looks dramatic but is likely the result of fairly minor issues. Black smoke is caused when excess fuel is burned in the cylinders, meaning that there is too much fuel in the fuel and air mix. This could be caused by a dirty or clogged air filter. A faulty fuel pump, a carburetor (device that mixes fuel and air, primarily in older cars) that isn’t properly adjusted, or a faulty engine computer could also be the underlying cause.
White Smoke: This white smoke is actually steam that is produced when either water or antifreeze gets into the cylinder and burns along with the fuel and air mixture. This probably means that one of the gaskets, which separate the cooling system from the cylinder, is cracked or leaking. Check your oil as well to see if antifreeze has leaked into the oil (the oil will be cloudy.) See part two for more information on how to check your oil.
Blue smoke: This indicates that your engine is burning oil. Broken or stuck piston rings—i.e. the seals between the piston and cylinder—are the most common culprit. Check your oil levels carefully to see if you notice a leak. If too much oil gets into the cylinder, it will wreck the spark plugs, so it’s best to check this sooner rather than later.
As we’ve discussed, the engine is a fairly complex machine, and lots of different problems can occur. I’ve outlined a few of the most common and easy to diagnose here. In part two, I’ll cover a few of the basic maintenance tasks you can carry out to help ensure that your engine doesn’t develop any of the problems in the first place.
How to maintain your car:
1. Check your oil (once a week)
a. Car at level spot
b. Wait awhile for engine to cool and oil to collect in oil pan.
c. Pull the engine oil dipstick out. (Usually labeled OR indicated in owner’s manual.)
d. Wipe it off, and then insert it again.
e. Oil should be at- or close to- the “full mark.”
f. Oil should be transparent—not cloudy—and a light golden colour. If your oil is a milky white or black color, have your car serviced immediately.
2. Check automatic transmission fluid. Cold engine- “cold” mark (lower one); hot engine— “hot” mark (upper one)
3. Check coolant level (should be between low and full marks.) Add coolant after car has cooled down. (Don’t take the radiator cap off to do so! May be under pressure.) Also check manual; normally a translucent white reservoir to one side of the engine.
4. Check the rubber drive belts at the front of your engine; make sure they aren’t too worn or frayed
5. Have your car serviced: oil and filter change every 5000 miles, full service once a year. More on this in a later entry.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
Friday, July 9, 2010
Hypermiling Basics
Hypermiling. The first time I heard the word, I imagined some strange engine malfunction, or perhaps a kind of car-induced anxiety attack, the automotive equivalent of hyperventilating. Of course, neither of these vague impressions was remotely correct. In reality, hypermiling is many things: extreme cost-cutting strategy, environmentally friendly practice, competitive sport, and 2008 Word of the Year (according to the New Oxford American Dictionary.)
Hypermiling is, in short, the pursuit of the maximum number of miles per gallon. Hypermilers aim to exceed the EPA miles-per-gallon rating of any given car. Hypermilers regularly practice many of the basic gas-conservation measures I described in my previous post on the subject; however, they also implement an array of advanced techniques that can result in amazing gas savings. Experienced hypermilers regularly achieve over 100 MPG (when driving Hybrids.) For example, at the 2006 Hybridfest MPG Challenge in Madison, Wisconsin, the winning driver (Wayne Gerdes) averaged 183 MPG over the assigned route.
Some critics, including the American Automobile Association, have argued that hypermiling practices can be dangerous and, in some cases, illegal (overinflating tires and coasting with the engine off are two examples often cited in this debate.) In response, hypermiling associations have argued that true hypermilers would never endorse an illegal practice and that, in fact, hypermilers are more conscientious about practicing safe driving measures often ignored by others, such as paying detailed attention to their surroundings, anticipating traffic hazards, and driving at or below posted speed limits.
Like many things, hypermiling practices are tools, which can be used to good and bad effect. In this post, I’ll describe a few of the most common hypermiling measures, although dozens, if not hundreds, more exist. Bear in mind that a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. You won’t be able to achieve 100 MPG (or more) overnight; many of these techniques take some time and practice to adjust to. Experienced hypermilers recommend adding techniques to your toolbox one at a time, and testing them out first in an empty parking lot or other safe practice area. When sharing a road with others, don’t ever attempt maneuvers that you don’t feel 100% comfortable executing.
EQUIPMENT
Obviously, the kind of car you drive will have a huge impact on the MPG you can achieve. Hybrids, such as the Honda Insight or Toyota Prius, are far more fuel-efficient than the average car. Watch out for an upcoming entry on purchasing, owning, and driving a hybrid, and entries on other types of fuel-efficient technologies (such as bio-diesel.) However, many of these hypermiling techniques will also produce noticeable increases in fuel efficiency in “normal” cars.
Driving a manual transmission, rather than automatic transmission, can also aid hypermiling. The greater control over the car that manual transmission gives you makes many hypermiling maneuvers, such as coasting, easier.
Finally, consider investing in an Instantaneous Fuel Consumption Display (unless you drive a car, like the Toyota Prius, that comes equipped with such a device.) There are a number of different kinds of devices that can be used to monitor fuel consumption; you may want to speak to your mechanic about which would best suit your budget and model of car. Having such a device is perhaps one of the best ways to train yourself to be a more efficient driver, as you can easily see the results of different techniques as you apply them.
EIGHT KEY STRATEGIES
First and foremost, hypermiling begins with basic fuel economy strategies: avoid sudden braking and acceleration, avoid unnecessary idling, try not to drive in heavy traffic, use air condition sparingly, combine several short trips into one longer one, and don’t drive too fast.
However, hypermilers go above and beyond these basic common sense tenets with a number of advanced maneuvers:
1. Ridge Riding
This is a way of avoiding the “drag” caused when water or snow accumulates in the troughs worn into the lanes on the road. Basically, most drivers drive in the center of the lane, which produces uneven wear on the pavement, creating ridges and troughs. (These depressions are slight but can have a noticeable impact.) Instead of driving in these slight depressions, drive on the “ridges” on either side, so that the car has one wheel on the center ridge and the other on the ridge on the right or left side of lane. According to some hypermiling proponents, this technique has the added safety benefit of causing other drivers to take notice of your unusual positioning in the lane, and hence they will drive with greater awareness.
2. Anticipate Potential Obstacles
Driving at a steady speed, without stopping or accelerating, is a great way to increase gas mileage, as acceleration burns excess gas. For this reason, hypermilers maintain an awareness of road conditions in the distance, so that they can anticipate and avoid potential obstacles in order to maintain a constant speed.
3. Driving With Load (DWL)
Essentially, driving with load means maintaining a constant fuel consumption rate as you pass over hilly terrain. Say you have cruise control set. Cruise control keeps your car at a constant speed; however, this means that your engine has to exert more power to maintain this speed when you are going up a hill. In DWL, you maintain a constant fuel consumption instead of a constant speed. If you have an instantaneous fuel consumption display, you can use this device to make sure that you maintain constant fuel consumption. If you don’t have an IFCD, however, you can approximate constant fuel consumption by keeping the accelerator “locked” at a fixed angle as you move up and over the hill.
4. Driving Without Brakes (DWB)
Basically, when driving in heavy traffic, pretend you don’t have brakes. Create a large buffer zone around your car, so that you have time to react to changes in traffic speed without actually having to stop. This can take some patience, especially as other cars will likely cut into your buffer space. However, this can ultimately be a safer and more relaxing way to drive in traffic. The goal is to achieve a constant slow speed despite the “stop and go” of cars around you.
5. Smart Braking
When you brake, your brakes convert the kinetic energy of your moving car into heat, so that your car slows down. Essentially, braking is like “burning” up gasoline without making any forward progress. For this reason, hypermilers practice smart braking. First, anticipate lights; start slowing down way before the red light so that, ideally, you will still be moving when the light changes and the traffic moves forward again. The goal is to continue rolling without actually coming to a dead stop. (Remember, however, that rolling through stop signs is illegal. Safety and legality are still more important than fuel economy.)
If you are stopping on a downhill plane, try to stop some ways before the end of the hill so that you can use the slope to get your car rolling again without having to accelerate. If stopping near or on an uphill, try to roll as far up the hill as possible before coming to a complete stop, to avoid having to accelerate uphill.
6. Rabbit Timing
This is related to smart braking and is a technique for maximizing fuel economy when driving near lights with motion sensors. If you see a red, yellow, or stale green light ahead, slow down and allow another car to pass you and “trip” the motion sensor, so that the light is green by the time you get there, and you can continue through without stopping.
7. Smart Parking
Remember that your car is least fuel-efficient when the engine is cold. This means that you want to execute most of your parking maneuvers when the engine is warm. For this reason, reverse into parking spaces, so that you can easily pull away. If possible, seek out parking spaces on an incline, so that you will be able to roll out of the space, aiding your acceleration with a “cold” engine. Parking in the sun can also help to keep your engine warm and increase efficiency.
8. Engine Off Coasting
This is the limit of my personal hypermiling comfort zone. When slowing down or moving downhill, some hypermilers recommend engine-off coasting as a means to boost efficiency. This involves shifting to neutral, turning off the engine by setting the ignition key to IG-I, then turning it back to IG-II to activate the electronics so that the steering wheel doesn’t lock. However, power steering and power braking functions are likely to be lost. This most easily practiced in a manual transmission car without power steering.
However, this is one of the “borderline” hypermiling techniques that can potentially be dangerous and even illegal in some places. If you drive a manual transmission car, coasting in neutral with the engine still running is a safer, albeit less fuel efficient, alternative.
These are a few basic strategies. However, there are dozens more. If you do catch the hypermiling bug, you may want to check out http://www.cleanmpg.com/, which offers both introductions to hypermiling basics and forums for sharing more advanced tips, and http://www.ecomodder.com/, which offers a comprehensive list of 100+ hypermiling tips.
Even if you don’t become a committed hypermiler, incorporating one or more of these techniques into your daily commute could still help you to conserve gas and save money.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
Hypermiling is, in short, the pursuit of the maximum number of miles per gallon. Hypermilers aim to exceed the EPA miles-per-gallon rating of any given car. Hypermilers regularly practice many of the basic gas-conservation measures I described in my previous post on the subject; however, they also implement an array of advanced techniques that can result in amazing gas savings. Experienced hypermilers regularly achieve over 100 MPG (when driving Hybrids.) For example, at the 2006 Hybridfest MPG Challenge in Madison, Wisconsin, the winning driver (Wayne Gerdes) averaged 183 MPG over the assigned route.
Some critics, including the American Automobile Association, have argued that hypermiling practices can be dangerous and, in some cases, illegal (overinflating tires and coasting with the engine off are two examples often cited in this debate.) In response, hypermiling associations have argued that true hypermilers would never endorse an illegal practice and that, in fact, hypermilers are more conscientious about practicing safe driving measures often ignored by others, such as paying detailed attention to their surroundings, anticipating traffic hazards, and driving at or below posted speed limits.
Like many things, hypermiling practices are tools, which can be used to good and bad effect. In this post, I’ll describe a few of the most common hypermiling measures, although dozens, if not hundreds, more exist. Bear in mind that a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. You won’t be able to achieve 100 MPG (or more) overnight; many of these techniques take some time and practice to adjust to. Experienced hypermilers recommend adding techniques to your toolbox one at a time, and testing them out first in an empty parking lot or other safe practice area. When sharing a road with others, don’t ever attempt maneuvers that you don’t feel 100% comfortable executing.
EQUIPMENT
Obviously, the kind of car you drive will have a huge impact on the MPG you can achieve. Hybrids, such as the Honda Insight or Toyota Prius, are far more fuel-efficient than the average car. Watch out for an upcoming entry on purchasing, owning, and driving a hybrid, and entries on other types of fuel-efficient technologies (such as bio-diesel.) However, many of these hypermiling techniques will also produce noticeable increases in fuel efficiency in “normal” cars.
Driving a manual transmission, rather than automatic transmission, can also aid hypermiling. The greater control over the car that manual transmission gives you makes many hypermiling maneuvers, such as coasting, easier.
Finally, consider investing in an Instantaneous Fuel Consumption Display (unless you drive a car, like the Toyota Prius, that comes equipped with such a device.) There are a number of different kinds of devices that can be used to monitor fuel consumption; you may want to speak to your mechanic about which would best suit your budget and model of car. Having such a device is perhaps one of the best ways to train yourself to be a more efficient driver, as you can easily see the results of different techniques as you apply them.
EIGHT KEY STRATEGIES
First and foremost, hypermiling begins with basic fuel economy strategies: avoid sudden braking and acceleration, avoid unnecessary idling, try not to drive in heavy traffic, use air condition sparingly, combine several short trips into one longer one, and don’t drive too fast.
However, hypermilers go above and beyond these basic common sense tenets with a number of advanced maneuvers:
1. Ridge Riding
This is a way of avoiding the “drag” caused when water or snow accumulates in the troughs worn into the lanes on the road. Basically, most drivers drive in the center of the lane, which produces uneven wear on the pavement, creating ridges and troughs. (These depressions are slight but can have a noticeable impact.) Instead of driving in these slight depressions, drive on the “ridges” on either side, so that the car has one wheel on the center ridge and the other on the ridge on the right or left side of lane. According to some hypermiling proponents, this technique has the added safety benefit of causing other drivers to take notice of your unusual positioning in the lane, and hence they will drive with greater awareness.
2. Anticipate Potential Obstacles
Driving at a steady speed, without stopping or accelerating, is a great way to increase gas mileage, as acceleration burns excess gas. For this reason, hypermilers maintain an awareness of road conditions in the distance, so that they can anticipate and avoid potential obstacles in order to maintain a constant speed.
3. Driving With Load (DWL)
Essentially, driving with load means maintaining a constant fuel consumption rate as you pass over hilly terrain. Say you have cruise control set. Cruise control keeps your car at a constant speed; however, this means that your engine has to exert more power to maintain this speed when you are going up a hill. In DWL, you maintain a constant fuel consumption instead of a constant speed. If you have an instantaneous fuel consumption display, you can use this device to make sure that you maintain constant fuel consumption. If you don’t have an IFCD, however, you can approximate constant fuel consumption by keeping the accelerator “locked” at a fixed angle as you move up and over the hill.
4. Driving Without Brakes (DWB)
Basically, when driving in heavy traffic, pretend you don’t have brakes. Create a large buffer zone around your car, so that you have time to react to changes in traffic speed without actually having to stop. This can take some patience, especially as other cars will likely cut into your buffer space. However, this can ultimately be a safer and more relaxing way to drive in traffic. The goal is to achieve a constant slow speed despite the “stop and go” of cars around you.
5. Smart Braking
When you brake, your brakes convert the kinetic energy of your moving car into heat, so that your car slows down. Essentially, braking is like “burning” up gasoline without making any forward progress. For this reason, hypermilers practice smart braking. First, anticipate lights; start slowing down way before the red light so that, ideally, you will still be moving when the light changes and the traffic moves forward again. The goal is to continue rolling without actually coming to a dead stop. (Remember, however, that rolling through stop signs is illegal. Safety and legality are still more important than fuel economy.)
If you are stopping on a downhill plane, try to stop some ways before the end of the hill so that you can use the slope to get your car rolling again without having to accelerate. If stopping near or on an uphill, try to roll as far up the hill as possible before coming to a complete stop, to avoid having to accelerate uphill.
6. Rabbit Timing
This is related to smart braking and is a technique for maximizing fuel economy when driving near lights with motion sensors. If you see a red, yellow, or stale green light ahead, slow down and allow another car to pass you and “trip” the motion sensor, so that the light is green by the time you get there, and you can continue through without stopping.
7. Smart Parking
Remember that your car is least fuel-efficient when the engine is cold. This means that you want to execute most of your parking maneuvers when the engine is warm. For this reason, reverse into parking spaces, so that you can easily pull away. If possible, seek out parking spaces on an incline, so that you will be able to roll out of the space, aiding your acceleration with a “cold” engine. Parking in the sun can also help to keep your engine warm and increase efficiency.
8. Engine Off Coasting
This is the limit of my personal hypermiling comfort zone. When slowing down or moving downhill, some hypermilers recommend engine-off coasting as a means to boost efficiency. This involves shifting to neutral, turning off the engine by setting the ignition key to IG-I, then turning it back to IG-II to activate the electronics so that the steering wheel doesn’t lock. However, power steering and power braking functions are likely to be lost. This most easily practiced in a manual transmission car without power steering.
However, this is one of the “borderline” hypermiling techniques that can potentially be dangerous and even illegal in some places. If you drive a manual transmission car, coasting in neutral with the engine still running is a safer, albeit less fuel efficient, alternative.
These are a few basic strategies. However, there are dozens more. If you do catch the hypermiling bug, you may want to check out http://www.cleanmpg.com/, which offers both introductions to hypermiling basics and forums for sharing more advanced tips, and http://www.ecomodder.com/, which offers a comprehensive list of 100+ hypermiling tips.
Even if you don’t become a committed hypermiler, incorporating one or more of these techniques into your daily commute could still help you to conserve gas and save money.
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Driving in the Dark
Driving at night is, unfortunately, a necessary evil: necessary, because we all need to get places after dark; an evil, since driving at night is far more hazardous that driving during the day. A National Safety Council study revealed that you are three times more likely to be involved in a fatal accident at night than during the day. At first, driving at night may “feel” similar to daytime driving, especially if you are fortunate enough to live in an area with good street lighting. However, even under ideal conditions, driving at night can be hazardous.
In short, your eyes need light to see. When the amount of light available decreases as the sun goes down, your eyes begin to function differently, in order to make the most of the limited light available. This allows us to see at night. However, you do have to pay a price for this improved function. At night, it is more difficult for us to see clearly (20/20 vision is nearly impossible to sustain); we are unable to see colors; our depth perception decreases; and our field of vision is reduced.
How to compensate for this? First, slow down. Remember that you’re less likely to see hazards that may cross your path, such as animals, bicyclists, pedestrians, etc. You can only see as far ahead of you as your headlights; low beams provide around 250feet of vision, while high beams provide about 350-500. In order to avoid any obstacles in your path, you’ll need to be able to stop within this distance, i.e. the area illuminated by your headlights. Adjust your speed accordingly.
Remember that you see contrast less clearly at night, which means you won’t spot bumps in the road as easily. Keeping a slower speed will allow you react to any unexpected contours in the road, which means that you won’t damage your car by flying into a pothole or over a speed bump. You’ll also want to keep your eyes moving, checking for approaching lights, obstacles, etc.
Glare is also a major issue when driving at night (as well as during sunset and sunrise.) In fact, the presence of other lights on the road may actually be more dangerous than the dark itself. The lights of approaching cars can cause a couple seconds of temporary blindness. During these seconds, a car going at 55mph will travel half the length of a football field! However, you can do a few things to combat glare.
First, make sure to keep your windshield clean. The dirt and grime that accumulate on your windshield will reflect the light on the road, making glare worse. You may have noticed that while your windshield looks fine during the day, it looks worse as the sun is setting. Remember to clean your windshield on both the outside AND inside; over time, your exhalations and condensation will dirty the inside of the windshield as well. You should also keep all other lights and mirrors clean as well.
Next, avoid using your high beams within 500 feet of approaching vehicles or if you are following a car at less than 500 feet distance. You do want to use your high beams when it is safe to do so, as these can be a great help to you. However, you don’t want to blind other drivers, so be courteous in your use of high beams.
However, we all forget to turn off our high beams sometimes. If a driver approaches with high beams on, don’t flash your high beams in response, as this could temporarily blind the other driver. Instead of looking at the approaching car(s), look down and to the right, focusing on the white line at the side of the road.
Many cars also have a “day-night” setting on the rear view mirror (perhaps a little tab that changes the angle of the mirror?). You can use this to help reduce the accumulation of glare at night. Adjusting your side view mirrors properly can also help eliminate glare; see my entry on “How To Eliminate Your Blind Spot” for advice on how to do this.
In addition to these basic practices, you can take a few steps to prepare for night driving. First, if you are driving in a new area or to an unfamiliar destination, try to drive this route for the first time during the day, as navigating at night can be particularly stressful.
Next, have your headlights aligned during your next tune-up or inspection. Try to do so at least once a year. Properly aligned headlights will improve your field of vision and won’t cause as much glare for other drivers.
Also, make sure to have your vision checked regularly. Our night vision deteriorates as we age, but you may not notice this right away. It took me months of squinting at the blackboard in high school before I admitted that I needed glasses. Keep in mind that a fifty year old probably needs twice as much light as a thirty year old to see clearly at night. Make sure you’re getting enough vitamin A, as this helps to keep your night vision in good working order. If you do wear glasses, you may want to get anti-reflective coating for them, as this will also help prevent glare.
Drive slowly, be aware, and don’t be a deer caught in the headlights of approaching drivers!
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
In short, your eyes need light to see. When the amount of light available decreases as the sun goes down, your eyes begin to function differently, in order to make the most of the limited light available. This allows us to see at night. However, you do have to pay a price for this improved function. At night, it is more difficult for us to see clearly (20/20 vision is nearly impossible to sustain); we are unable to see colors; our depth perception decreases; and our field of vision is reduced.
How to compensate for this? First, slow down. Remember that you’re less likely to see hazards that may cross your path, such as animals, bicyclists, pedestrians, etc. You can only see as far ahead of you as your headlights; low beams provide around 250feet of vision, while high beams provide about 350-500. In order to avoid any obstacles in your path, you’ll need to be able to stop within this distance, i.e. the area illuminated by your headlights. Adjust your speed accordingly.
Remember that you see contrast less clearly at night, which means you won’t spot bumps in the road as easily. Keeping a slower speed will allow you react to any unexpected contours in the road, which means that you won’t damage your car by flying into a pothole or over a speed bump. You’ll also want to keep your eyes moving, checking for approaching lights, obstacles, etc.
Glare is also a major issue when driving at night (as well as during sunset and sunrise.) In fact, the presence of other lights on the road may actually be more dangerous than the dark itself. The lights of approaching cars can cause a couple seconds of temporary blindness. During these seconds, a car going at 55mph will travel half the length of a football field! However, you can do a few things to combat glare.
First, make sure to keep your windshield clean. The dirt and grime that accumulate on your windshield will reflect the light on the road, making glare worse. You may have noticed that while your windshield looks fine during the day, it looks worse as the sun is setting. Remember to clean your windshield on both the outside AND inside; over time, your exhalations and condensation will dirty the inside of the windshield as well. You should also keep all other lights and mirrors clean as well.
Next, avoid using your high beams within 500 feet of approaching vehicles or if you are following a car at less than 500 feet distance. You do want to use your high beams when it is safe to do so, as these can be a great help to you. However, you don’t want to blind other drivers, so be courteous in your use of high beams.
However, we all forget to turn off our high beams sometimes. If a driver approaches with high beams on, don’t flash your high beams in response, as this could temporarily blind the other driver. Instead of looking at the approaching car(s), look down and to the right, focusing on the white line at the side of the road.
Many cars also have a “day-night” setting on the rear view mirror (perhaps a little tab that changes the angle of the mirror?). You can use this to help reduce the accumulation of glare at night. Adjusting your side view mirrors properly can also help eliminate glare; see my entry on “How To Eliminate Your Blind Spot” for advice on how to do this.
In addition to these basic practices, you can take a few steps to prepare for night driving. First, if you are driving in a new area or to an unfamiliar destination, try to drive this route for the first time during the day, as navigating at night can be particularly stressful.
Next, have your headlights aligned during your next tune-up or inspection. Try to do so at least once a year. Properly aligned headlights will improve your field of vision and won’t cause as much glare for other drivers.
Also, make sure to have your vision checked regularly. Our night vision deteriorates as we age, but you may not notice this right away. It took me months of squinting at the blackboard in high school before I admitted that I needed glasses. Keep in mind that a fifty year old probably needs twice as much light as a thirty year old to see clearly at night. Make sure you’re getting enough vitamin A, as this helps to keep your night vision in good working order. If you do wear glasses, you may want to get anti-reflective coating for them, as this will also help prevent glare.
Drive slowly, be aware, and don’t be a deer caught in the headlights of approaching drivers!
To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.
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